Cant do that!

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Chief said:
The car was named Running up side down...AND that is because my son and I got so involved with how the car looked that we (my son) put the stickers on the bottom and I had no idea until QT asked my why my car is up side down??? I thought he was joking...Nope no joke. Funny mistake so I made light of it and rebuilt the car and made it look like it was running upside down but it was actually running correctly the second time...
i really wanted to forget about that...oh well
lol

Thanks for helping my memory Chief! I was way off!
 
GravityX said:
Joe, just build it and give it a try. We will anxiously await your results.

Ok Paul. I am all over it.

Congrats on the power ranking!

Looking good fella
 
Ok.

BR always told me that the quickest way to make it down the track is with nothing ever touching the rails but the rolling friction from the DFW.

Now this makes perfect sense to me, but I cant help but tinker.

I am so very curious about 3- 4 wheel rolling friction the whole way.

Like the rail hugger of yore.

But even tighter by having all wheels positively canted.

Is this utter nonsense?

Thanks as always.
 
Build it and try it Joe! I'm afraid that if a rear wheel touches it's going to slow it considerably even with the positive cant.
 
Hi BR,

When it comes to wheels and speed, one could hardly hope for a better resource.

"Building it" was a forgone conclusion before the thought of posting the question ever entered my head.

The only question is its place in the queue (within the long list of projects).

Of course I also enjoy hearing you fellas talking about the DFW and like matters.
 
bracketracer said:
laserman said:
Oh I can hardly wait to hear what BR has to say!

Now Joe, I thought we had already proven that there is less drag with the wheel riding against the axle head? But there's something even faster than riding the axle head.

If you widen the body then you have increased the frontal area, that's usually a speed killer. "Thin to win" is a three dimensional rule.

Why is it that people have no qualms about running 6+ degrees of bend in the DFW axle but stop at 3 degrees in the rear?

I think it was Chief that had a car named Both Sides Up or BOSU if my memory serves me correct.

OK BR,

After having considerable time to digest your question about the rear wheel cant I have to wonder the same thing.

A greater cant would certainly broaden the rear wheelbase and make for a more stable car.

There must be a tipping point and if I know you at all, I think you are figuring that 6* is about it.

Thanks,
Joe
 
Wouldnt a 6°+ rear cant be harder for the wheels to migrate towards the axle head? Where the DFW with say a 6° cant you know isnt going to ride the axle head
 
Obsessedderbydad said:
Wouldnt a 6°+ rear cant be harder for the wheels to migrate towards the axle head? Where the DFW with say a 6° cant you know isnt going to ride the axle head

I think where I got you confused was when I used a "+" sign to indicate "plus". I think you thought I meant "positive"? I was talking about using more negative cant in the rear which would (I think) drive the wheels to the axle heads quicker. Sorry about that! I should have been more clear.
 
I dont know that that would be quicker. I personally have never tried, but I would guess using that much negitive cant would be harder b/c the wheel would be fighting against the gravity of the weight pulling downwards and the 6° negitive cant (axle head up higher), would be more difficult for the wheel to migrate out to the axle head. Not to mention you'd have to run a bigger wheel gap so the wheels dont touch the body of the car. But one would have to test it to see /images/boards/smilies/smile.gif
 
Hi ODD,

I think that if a flat axle will not want to migrate, but a 3* axle will want to migrate, then at a 6 degree angle it will want to jump out there quicker.

The body should probably be angled to match the angle of the inner bore at 90* so that the gap can be the same at any angle. (I think)

The only reason that I can think of that this is not talked about more often here is:

One would need a pin slightly smaller than 3/16" diameter under the Silver Bullet in order to achieve it.

I think 3/16" comes out to about 6.5* so I am going to look for a long pin that is a tad smaller.

Probably the fellas with bigger set ups do it all the time.
 
Laser man I have tried tungsten tig welding rods. They fit the whole silver bullet. Mccaster carr sells drill blanks in different sizes. Even in decimal sizes. Look up drill blanks.

Does more cant help or hurt ?
 
Beauty,

Thanks Speed Bump.

BR seems to think so.

It makes perfect sense in my head.

Only time and testing will tell though.

Thanks for the suggestion BR.

It is way more logical than the idea that started this topic.
 
Never tried extra heavy cant, but IMHO the friction would increase the more you went. I.e. heavy cant would put extra pressure on both ends of the wheel bore against the axle. Sketch it out on paper, and you will see what I mean. There has to be a point of diminishing returns the more you cant, but there must be a "sweet spot".
 
Like OPA said. There comes a point where it'll be harder for the wheel to migrate to the head of the axle. For example. I know flat, doesnt migrate out, 3° migrates out, so in theory you're thinking at 6° it'll be even faster. What about 45°? There has to be a point like OPA said at a certain angle where the down force of the weight, plus the additional higher angle will create more fritction and actually slow the wheel to the axle head. But like I said, I've never tried 6° cant, so I can't say for sure if it'll be any faster or not. But my guess is no.
 
Let u know in the morning. Just drill one for testing. Finished my car for the April race.