Clear coat

Apr 29, 2013
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I am currently using a lacquer as a clear coat, tried enamel did like it. I have been airbrushing my cars and plan to continue doing this. I am considering moving to a 2 part urethane automotive clear and wanted to know if it is going to make a difference. This is going to be an expense for me since I don’t have the spray gun or the air compressor big enough to run one. On top of that it is going to be $60-$75 just to purchase the urethane.
dollarsigns
puke
 
If you look at your automotive paint stores I have found U-Pol in an aresol can which is not cheap 15-20. However it is direct automotive clear and looks fantastic.
 
I've used the SprayMax 2-Part Urethane Clear in the Aersol can. It did 7 cars with about 3 coats each; I was very pleased with it.
 
NinjaRabbi, I talked to you up in Indy about the two part clear. Is this the same the requires a lot of ventilation? I'm going to be painting in my basement. I'm planning on building a paint booth but that may be a few months away.
 
I stopped clear coating....I just primer once, sand, spray gloss spray paint or metallic color (Tamiya), and then wipe with a 1200 grit sandpaper once, and then 2 coats of liquid glass car polish and bake in sun for an hour.

I think clear would look much nicer and shiny but damn I am terrible at putting the stuff on and just have no patience waiting for multiple coats to dry LOL...

W
 
The U-Pol is dry in about 10 minutes. Easy to work with and professional grade. If this is too costly. Try the Dupli-Color you can get from like autozone. not as nice but still pretty decent
 
Hey, I paint cars for a living with the clear coat you speak of. I would highly recommend that you do not spray it without the proper ventilation...also I suggest a good quality 3M respirator. All the paint manufacturers put a fragrance in their clears but what can hurt you is the isocyanates, which can and does get absorbed into your skin. My personal preference it PPG envirobase clear...it dries fast and is gorgeous.
 
I did pick up a can of U-Pol at the local body shop supply store. $28 ouch, but I’m to inpatient to order online. I did find it on Amazon for $12.66.

How many coats do you need to apply?

Chief, thanks for the suggestion, but that stuff is a little beyond me. It said Ideal for: Shops employing top-notch painters. I will that to you professionals.
surrender
 
HAHA All my cars look good but like my friend the Godfather says "pretty doesnt win races"
cool
Mr Chips Racing said:
Chief -

If you paint cars for a living, when are we going to see your skills on a derby?
 
Is all this talk calling for a test regarding car surface? Which is faster a slick smooth surface or an ordinary non-clear coated surface? Hey... if it worth a .010 sec. I'm in. Just thinking out loud... LOL
 
I a not sure the work is worth the small amount of time...I dont think it would gain .01...well at least it hasnt helped me yet, my last car was a sticker and I am now considering the sharpie look.
GravityX said:
Is all this talk calling for a test regarding car surface? Which is faster a slick smooth surface or an ordinary non-clear coated surface? Hey... if it worth a .010 sec. I'm in. Just thinking out loud... LOL
 
Ask Kinser, his cars are fast painted with a sharpie and no clear! There are much more important areas to consider when making a fast car. I have also seen some great looking cars that run fast as well.

GravityX said:
Is all this talk calling for a test regarding car surface? Which is faster a slick smooth surface or an ordinary non-clear coated surface? Hey... if it worth a .010 sec. I'm in. Just thinking out loud... LOL
 
Diamond Coat is another excellent option and can be brushed. But like chief recommends, thinning and spraying MUST BE DONE WITH A QUALITY RESPERATORMAND ADEQUATE VENILATION. A manufacturing rep told me of a guy who was in the hospital for10 days who sprayed without one - the stuff does not leave your lungs.
 
DerikX,

Yes, that is the stuff we were talking about. Need very good ventilation and a respirator.

NinjaRabbi, I talked to you up in Indy about the two part clear. Is this the same the requires a lot of ventilation? I'm going to be painting in my basement. I'm planning on building a paint booth but that may be a few months away.
 
lol
Yeah I guess you have a point there, I never gave that a second thought.

E.T.Racing said:
Ask Kinser, his cars are fast painted with a sharpie and no clear! There are much more important areas to consider when making a fast car. I have also seen some great looking cars that run fast as well.

GravityX said:
Is all this talk calling for a test regarding car surface? Which is faster a slick smooth surface or an ordinary non-clear coated surface? Hey... if it worth a .010 sec. I'm in. Just thinking out loud... LOL
 
Mr Chips Racing said:
The U-Pol is dry in about 10 minutes. Easy to work with and professional grade. If this is too costly. Try the Dupli-Color you can get from like autozone. not as nice but still pretty decent

I used the U-Pol over the weekend, very impressed with the finish.

I do have another question. After flipping through some of the Pro’s builds on the Picture thread, I noticed some had left the wheel contact point unpainted. Does this make a difference with Oil? I have done this with graphite with the thought the wood would hold the graphite better than a smooth surface, but I thought you would want a smooth non-porous surface for oil./images/boards/smilies/confused.gif
 
You just want a HARD slippery surface. That UPol dries pretty hard.
DerikX Racing said:
Mr Chips Racing said:
The U-Pol is dry in about 10 minutes. Easy to work with and professional grade. If this is too costly. Try the Dupli-Color you can get from like autozone. not as nice but still pretty decent

I used the U-Pol over the weekend, very impressed with the finish.

I do have another question. After flipping through some of the Pro’s builds on the Picture thread, I noticed some had left the wheel contact point unpainted. Does this make a difference with Oil? I have done this with graphite with the thought the wood would hold the graphite better than a smooth surface, but I thought you would want a smooth non-porous surface for oil./images/boards/smilies/confused.gif