custom built ladder style bodies

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Fumbles

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Jan 22, 2015
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I enjoy tinkering in the barn, I've been building my own bodies that I'm racing in the NRWDRL classes. I thought I'd offer to build 3 custom bodies to sell to see if there is any interest in them as a way to give back to the community as there have been a lot of nice guys helping me out too. I'm not interested in going into business doing this but if there are guys that want this type of body design then I can help.
I'll leave room in the back for two rows of 1/4" cubes behind and in front of the rear axle.
I can even build them differently to adjust the amount of tortional flex allowed. (I call it "1/2, 3/4, Full" , 1/2 being the most flexible and Full being the most rigid). Body weights vary from mid 6 gram to 10 grams but have built them as low as mid 4 grams before. The body will be delivered with a 1/64 sheet of wood glued to the bottom of the chassis that will span from the rear end to just past the front axle. You will need to sheet the rest of it to cover it up, the bottom part in front of the front axle and the top side.
I can also drill the axle holes (3 degrees in the rear and zero degrees in the front) if you'd like.

You tell me these dimensions that you'd like:
- wheel base
- body width: outside to outside measurements

Body shipped to you in CONUS: $70
Drill the axle holes - add $5

PM me if you want me to build you one. I'm only going to offer to do 3 of them just in case my email blows up. Thanks!

Fumbles
 
Here you go ! These bodies I went 5 large cubes and one small cube wide in search of a narrow cross section. I can do whatever width you want for the cube space. These bodies are made from basswood.
 
That's for the DFW offset. I figure just offset it at the rear and save weight & it narrows the cross-section of the body for aerodynamics.
 
derbychip said:
I'm curious as to why on one side you have the extra wood by rear axle?
Click to expand...
To account for the 1/16" offset normally cut into the body at the DFW. So now it's at the rear instead of the front. Weight savings.
 
GravityX said:
derbychip said:
I'm curious as to why on one side you have the extra wood by rear axle?
Click to expand...
To account for the 1/16" offset normally cut into the body at the DFW. So now it's at the rear instead of the front. Weight savings.
Click to expand...

I noticed that myself. That's pretty clever, IMO. Instead of narrowing the DFW, thicken the rear!
 
Believe me, I didn't stumble onto that idea until later. I was so used to full pine blocks that I had a stick built body of mine that was already covered and had forgot to inset the DFW so I shut off my brain and buzzed a 1/16 cut into the DFW with my Dremel. As I was switching off the Dremel it hits me what I had done, you know... That sick feeling (lol). Took me a second to realize that I had just damaged/weakened the whole front structure. Duh. So I removed the covering material and reinforced the dfw with bracing - hence the cars name "Pegleg".

After that I would overlap the side rails at various locations down the side but that just added unnecessary weight. Maybe in a Street Stock body I'd have to bring the rear offset farther forward to allow proper mounting of the fender.
 
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