Hey guys quick question, do you guys have a preferred degree bend on DFW, also do you change them for different wheelbase?
Degree bend on DFW
- Thread starter 561 racing
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- Nov 24, 2011
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As much bend as possible while still being able to get the axle through the bore. This will vary by mold number and axles size. At one time I had one that was close to 10*.
Kinser Racing said:
Chris, did you find an advantage or disadvantage to this 10° bend? I could see how a larger degree could put a smaller footprint down, at the point of contact, which could be advantageous to reduce friction. Is there a trade off between the friction at the track surface and the added friction between the wheel bore and axle with the 10° bend? Am I in the right way of thinking?
- Nov 24, 2011
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I don't know all of the answers to your questions but yes, I felt it was an advantage. I didn't use one with less after that so I can't be sure, everything has evolved for me since then. I used that axle in my 2011 MOTM PS (SS) and it was on my SS in March and April of last year.
Thanks for your response. As with anything, there will always be a point of diminishing returns... Now, onto some more testing.... somewhere off in the distant future.
aircooled said:
So true! The arc the wheel travels, on a 10° axle, during small changes is greater with the same adjustment on an axle with, let's say 3°.
- Nov 24, 2011
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- Nov 24, 2011
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For me it seems the more bend I have the more sensitive the DFW is to very small adjustments.
I run between 7 to 9 degrees. You are right the more bend the more sensitive the adjustments are. Take your time and you find the right adjustment. I like the more aggresive bend in the DFW. Like GX said you are riding on a smaller foot print.
I run between 7 to 9 degrees. You are right the more bend the more sensitive the adjustments are. Take your time and you find the right adjustment. I like the more aggresive bend in the DFW. Like GX said you are riding on a smaller foot print.
There was actually a thread on this maybe a year or two ago. Someone had mentioned just that, with a large bend, the steer becomes difficult to dial in. It was suggested in that thread to drill the FDW with a positive cant; thereby reducing the about of bend needed in the axle, but the thread ended after that. It seems like it would give the steer adjustability yet still give a greater poitive cant fron the FDW. It is on my list to try...
That being said, I'm not sure why you would want such a great cant in the FDW anyway. It was thought that when the car runs the rail, that pressure would push the wheel towards the nail head, while still keeping the wheel contact area as low on the rail as possible (height-wise). When I actually watch my cars runs, the front wheel never seems to push away from the body ever, so I never really understood why such a big postivie cant would be desired. That being said, I'm not sure my builds/prep is consistent enough to determine if a greater positive cant on the FDW is better or worse.
That being said, I'm not sure why you would want such a great cant in the FDW anyway. It was thought that when the car runs the rail, that pressure would push the wheel towards the nail head, while still keeping the wheel contact area as low on the rail as possible (height-wise). When I actually watch my cars runs, the front wheel never seems to push away from the body ever, so I never really understood why such a big postivie cant would be desired. That being said, I'm not sure my builds/prep is consistent enough to determine if a greater positive cant on the FDW is better or worse.
Just piping in here, without previous tries or a physics book to back me up...
I seems to me that the more angle you put on the DFW, the more friction would increase. At some point, the hub is going to be jammed between the axle and the car body. While 10* is not much, it would be exerting more of a pinch on the hub than would a 1* bend.
I guess it's up to us to find that happy median, isn't it? /images/boards/smilies/smile.gif
I seems to me that the more angle you put on the DFW, the more friction would increase. At some point, the hub is going to be jammed between the axle and the car body. While 10* is not much, it would be exerting more of a pinch on the hub than would a 1* bend.
I guess it's up to us to find that happy median, isn't it? /images/boards/smilies/smile.gif
- Nov 24, 2011
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Granted it's a combination of many things but I've got several things to back me up. Look down v /images/boards/smilies/biggrin.gif
Let's hope you are talking about your speed badges and trophies and not something else../images/boards/smilies/smile.gif I think it's the lucky shirt../images/boards/smilies/smile.gif
Kinser said:
Pshh. The guy gets lucky a couple times... /images/boards/smilies/wink.gif
I was referring more to the idea of the canted drill job, angled axles, etc. all adding up to a really steep angle on the wheel. There is a point somewhere where the angle will cause a slow-down. (I expect it's > 10*; but I'm not going to expend the effort to find it. There are plenty other things I know I'm not doing really well that need to be sorted first)
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Crash Enburn said:
I've never tried the double angle and I don't think I could make it work. I think 5kids does something like that but His set up is more elaborate than my simple mind could handle. lol
- Nov 24, 2011
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