OK fellas I got the urge tonight to build a car so what better than to test all the new bearing products. Oh my! My new Unlimited car only ran one pass that was a 2.880, the rest were 2.87's even with cars on the track with a low of 2.876. I haven't even tried to find a sweet spot tuning it! Not sure if it can win but in less than 2 hours you can build a top notch Unlimited car now.
The bearing class has always been a class that anyone could buy a laser cut body, some acrylic wheels and some decent axles and be "in the mix". Thats why the bearing class can be won and lost by .0001 many of times. It's getting that last .0001 that seperates the fastest guys.
I used:
The new bearing needle for the front This should also be explained. One reason we think some bearing cars did not perform very well is that the old DD4H axles were undersized. This would allow the inner bearing races to slip and not let the bearing perform to its full potential. Your bearing axles should always be a very nice slip fit with almost a little pressure when sliding them on the axle. It's a fine line and thats why I have went to using gauge pins for my axles. This lets me get the exact fit I want every time! I am sure the new axles John has are oversized and that allows you to sand them down to a good fit. If you had the old version, I would get the new ones right away and your car will most definatly perform better.
The new single rear bearing axle
The new Razr wheels
A new prototype bearing body that weighed in at a firm .3oz after shaped
The Dynasty wheel bearings
A few notes: the single axle is a pain to install. I literally sanded it down with 400 grit. I am going to buy a new reamer to make install a snap.
This will be a big problem if the DD4H rear axle is stainless. The easist way to get around this problem is to clearance the center part of the axle area of the body. I clear out all the wood in the center so that the axle only has to push through 2 small areas of wood rather than the entire 1.75". The full length axles I have been making for a few years now are made of tool steel and then inserted with gauge pins. The gauge pins will not bend easy at all. If you try pushing a full length stainless axle through I think your going to risk bending those very easily.
I am glad to see you back racing John and trying to build the class up with products. The technology in this class has went stale and i am hoping something new comes along soon to push the class forward.
Ian