These are an awesome product from John. John let me know that they are sensitive to too much weight behind the rear axle on the 4 wheel touching set ups. Do not put 12 cubes behind the rear axle or it will wiggle down the track with the steer John has built in. Run down a tuning board if you can to make sure it has the steer you want with the weight you have behind the axle.
Dynasty 4 Wheel Touching Plug and Play
- Thread starter ninjarabbi1997
- Start date
Uh oh, we have more than 12 behind the rear axel. Did you bend the front axel for the DFW? How much bend? We do not have a test track and have not been able to run the car down the track. Now they are telling me we may not have a tune and practice night before the race. I know its crazy. Ignorance is blissed, I guess.
Maybe DD4H can sound in here on how much bend. I did not have the FDW axle bent, just plugged it in and it was a wiggler with 12 cubes behind the rear. You will need to add steer.
I may have to give him a call. Race is Sunday, I ASSUMED we would have a tuning night Friday, just like last year. Apparently that is not the case. They are not sure it is worth the time to set up the track on Friday for practice and then take it down and set it up Sunday morning.
- Nov 24, 2011
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You don't have to call John. The plug and play block is just that, PLUG and PLAY. No bent axle, no tuning other than weight placement. I hope this helps. /images/boards/smilies/smile.gif
More than 12 behind the rear axle!!!!
4 wheel touchers are the nastiest creature of all. You want the weight more forward to create a stable car. ALWAYS test the car once it is built on the tuning board to make sure the alignment did not change and it still has steer. A little warp after painting can create havoc.
4 wheel touchers are the nastiest creature of all. You want the weight more forward to create a stable car. ALWAYS test the car once it is built on the tuning board to make sure the alignment did not change and it still has steer. A little warp after painting can create havoc.
Oh boy, We are will be doing final assembly tonight or tomorrow. If we need more steer, do you suggest we bend the DFW a little? Also may try to bend NDW just enough to pass inspection.
Moving the weight might be easier than trying to bend the axle, assuming you are using the 92x axles.
DerbyDad4Hire said:More than 12 behind the rear axle!!!!
4 wheel touchers are the nastiest creature of all. You want the weight more forward to create a stable car. ALWAYS test the car once it is built on the tuning board to make sure the alignment did not change and it still has steer. A little warp after painting can create havoc.
OK I hope I can explain this well enough. Apparently one of the cars warped slightly. The problem (or potential ) is that when we cut the block we sanded down the front, right side approx 1/16". This was going to be the FDW, the car would steer to the left.
With the slight warp, the LEFT side naturally sits on the ground and the right (shaved side) is off the ground (just barely). I am not worried about passing inspection, but will this cause a problem. The shaved side is now the NDFW and the left will be the Dominate. It will still stear to the left (this seems to be the way the car wants to go naturally) . Any potential problems?
Two things:
[list type=decimal][*]If the left is the DFW side, go ahead and shave that side down if you still can. Install the NDFW with a larger gap so as to meet the 1-3/4" minimum track width measurement.[*]If the left is the DFW, you want the car to turn RIGHT. If it is still pulling left, your NDFW will be the wheel on the rail. Four points of contact: slower. Rotate your DFW axle about 90 degrees clockwise as a first step to dial in steer.[/list type=decimal]
-OR-
You could bend the Left axle radically so the wheel is off the ground, and continue to use the right side for your DFW.
My bad. Totally forgot that the title of this was "four wheels touching". Listen to Daddio.
[list type=decimal][*]If the left is the DFW side, go ahead and shave that side down if you still can. Install the NDFW with a larger gap so as to meet the 1-3/4" minimum track width measurement.[*]If the left is the DFW, you want the car to turn RIGHT. If it is still pulling left, your NDFW will be the wheel on the rail. Four points of contact: slower. Rotate your DFW axle about 90 degrees clockwise as a first step to dial in steer.[/list type=decimal]
-OR-
You could bend the Left axle radically so the wheel is off the ground, and continue to use the right side for your DFW.
My bad. Totally forgot that the title of this was "four wheels touching". Listen to Daddio.
Pull the front left wheel out and run it down the tuning board and it should have a good steer. Note where the steer is. Slightly bend the front ND axle and insert it and turn it until it barely touches and steers with the dominant and hits the same mark.
DerbyDad4Hire said:
Thats what I have done. It seems ok on the board, I just was not sure on the track. Also didn't know If I should shave or cut out a little on the left side.
There still is no practice or tune time scheduled before the race, I just do not understand /images/boards/smilies/frown.gif
Thanks everyone
- Nov 24, 2011
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I'm curious as to how the body warped. Did you use a quick drying primer or just paint? I've never painted without the quick drying primer and I've never had a body warp before. I put paint on pretty thick too.
The only time I have had a car body warp is when I wet sanded the first primer coat. I don't wet sand any more!
- Nov 24, 2011
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We used Krylon spray primer and paint. No wet sanding but the bodies were cut thin and then we milled out a few sections. I think we may have cut just a little too much out. It didn't warp very much, just barely enough for the wheel to skirt the ground. It would have been perfect if it had warped the other way.
DerbyDad4Hire said:More than 12 behind the rear axle!!!!
4 wheel touchers are the nastiest creature of all. You want the weight more forward to create a stable car. ALWAYS test the car once it is built on the tuning board to make sure the alignment did not change and it still has steer. A little warp after painting can create havoc.
Is it OK to put 12 cubes behind the rear axle on a 3 wheel plug n play rail runner? Is the steer the same same for the 4 wheel touch and three wheel touch with straight axles?
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