In need of some help please!

92hatchattack said:
Ok, you lost me just a little. Let me get this straight. Rail running and 3 wheel running are totaly different beast right? Building a rail runner is best, but having only 3 wheels touching is still better than just 4 wheels straight on the ground with no cant, correct?

Crap. im off to read more about this stuff. Seems the alignment is the hardest part with the most amount of viewpoints. Who would have thought that building a wooden car that rolls down would be so darn complicated.

Yeah. No joke.

Way to confuse the guy QT. He doesn't even speak "derby" yet.

With 2 weeks you are best off buying the parts from John. Including the pre- drilled wood.

If you really want to go nuts then get a "Silver Bullet" and find a buddy with a drill press.

Alignment is super important.

Hey Goatboy,
What's up? You can be selling those canting jigs like hotcakes. Mark up the price to make it worth your while.

As far as the rules go, I have one question for you.

When Mike the accountant smokes you, do you think he turned those wheels himself, or drilled for alignment?

There is plenty of fun to be had after the heavy lifting is done.

Learn about rail RUNNING, though (rear axle holes drilled at an angle). Everyone rides on only three wheels.

Good luck,
 
Sorry for the confusion. Check out Scott's web page. (5kidsracing) read throughout it and you'll have a much better understanding.
http://www.5kidsracing.webs.com/
Read Cub Scout builder first
 
^^^ Its all good, you have all been awesome. Yes I have been reading through this page as it was PMed to me by another member. Lots on info. Enough to make my head spin thats for sure!
 
The predrilled block is the number one thing to buy and it is not cheating in any way. No different than your neighbor helping you drill it. With a plug n play block you could just plug the stock axles and wheels in with no prep and add my graphite and probably beat 99.5% of all the cubby cars that are made. Oh yeah, YES there is a huge difference in different graphites.
 
oh yea i would get plug and play block before anything.just have DD4H cut slots in it looks like your stock block..best 25 bucks you will spend
 
^^^ Hi, too bad I already put my order in, and I am already past my spending limit for this years car. I didnt see if there was an option there for a stock bsa block that was re drilled. Was there?

I did however order your graphite, so plus one for me, plus your nitro wheels with the bore work.

A question for you. Can I obtain the same lever of quality as one of your pre drilled blocks by using your "Silver Bullet"? I really belive that I should be doing as much of this work from scratch as possible. The wheel turning being an exception as its just not feasable for me to purchase a lathe.

So can one equiped with your silver bulled make a block equivalent to one of your pre drilled ones, and how hard is it to do so?
 
i am pretty sure if rules say stock wheels you will get busted for nitros..you would be better of with dynasty basx and a predrilled block..i am sure dd4h will let you change the oder if you just put it in
 
TRE said:
i am pretty sure if rules say stock wheels you will get busted for nitros..you would be better of with dynasty basx and a predrilled block..i am sure dd4h will let you change the oder if you just put it in

How so? They retain all bsa writing. Our rules state they must be official bsa parts. They do not say that they cant be modified.

Simply put, I am a Leader in our pack. I cant be caught outside the rules. Per our rules these wheels are fine, though a block other than a bsa one would be against the rules.

Im not cheap, I wouldnt mind paying $25 for a block. But I have to keep a few morals in check. Now If I could drill a bsa block myself that would be as good as dd4h I'd be all for it. Im just trying to do the best I can within the rules in this short time frame.
 
Honestly as for trying to drill the wood canted like the pros do, there is not a really good way to do it without a drill press. I have to agree that the pre-drilled block is a way better choice than the wheels. You can get a already setup block for rail riding without having to go through the stress of figuring it out. With axle prep you already got coming and just prepping the current wheels you will beat a lot of racers hands down.

The reason is the pre-drilled block allows the rear wheels to be canted and will force them from body of the car going down the track. The front wheels will be drilled straight for better aligned and 1 wheel will be lifted to get you the 3 wheel effect. The DFW wheel you can bend easy enough like 5kids shows on his website. So you are still doing 90 of the work, but with a better body. Also make sure your district allows canted wheels.
 
sondo007 said:
Honestly as for trying to drill the wood canted like the pros do, there is not a really good way to do it without a drill press. I have to agree that the pre-drilled block is a way better choice than the wheels. You can get a already setup block for rail riding without having to go through the stress of figuring it out. With axle prep you already got coming and just prepping the current wheels you will beat a lot of racers hands down.

The reason is the pre-drilled block allows the rear wheels to be canted and will force them from body of the car going down the track. The front wheels will be drilled straight for better alignment and 1 wheel will be lifted to get you the 3 wheel effect. The DFW wheel you can bend easy enough like 5kids shows on his website. So you are still doing 90% of the work, but with a better body. Also make sure your district allows canted wheels.
 
I very much understand the need for a drill press. My question was if I have both a drill press available to me, and a silver bullet jig, would I be able to drill holes that are as good as having one of dd4h's pre drilled blocks?
 
the thing of it its you can drill the holes but then you will have to bend your front axle and tune it..unless you can figure out what degree he puts in the front DWF
 
I thought the silver bullet was designed to drill the holes with multiple camber angles so that bending axles was no longer needed? Or are we just saying that we dont know at what angle his pre drilled blocks have the DWF set at.

I know you guys must think I am a moron for not just buying a pre drilled block. But it is what it is. I have to keep my morals. Im sure that sounds silly. Dont get me wrong, I want to win, but not at all costs.
 
the silver bullet drills whatever you want,usually pros drill back axles at 3 degrees leave front straight bend one front axle and tune the car..plug and play is all done for you no tuning required..
 
No, it took me about 20-30 blocks I drilled myself before I finally got it right.
Also if your talking about a plug and play block, yea good luck with that. I have not even attempted it way to much involved to get it just right.
92hatchattack said:
I very much understand the need for a drill press. My question was if I have both a drill press available to me, and a silver bullet jig, would I be able to drill holes that are as good as having one of dd4h's pre drilled blocks?