Inside out front axles?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
Are you quoting someone famous?

So true. You have no idea how much time I have killed on these fenders.
 
laserman,

I love your "outside the box" thinking. This is the kinda stuff that needs to be explored to see if it works. Maybe someone has tried it before but i have not seen it. Who cares what others say, try it out and see what works for you. Again, well done!

Ian
 
Thanks Ian

I have plenty of far out ideas. I am a fan of the laser cut bodies you designed.

Best regards.
 
Laserman,

I'm with Ian on this one. I like your "outside of the box" thinking. You don't know until you try, I say try it. I know I've tried a bunch of things looking for the elusive edge. Some successful, others not. Send it in, you never know! I like it! If it doesn't fly down the track, it still flat out looks cool!
cool
Great job and keep up the R&D.

GX
 
My first thought was outside the box too and what the? I like the way you think. Just make sure those front fenders don't drag in the transition and clear the rail. I think if you run your front wheel in that orientation with the inside hub against the axle head it should be trimmed and re coned to reduce friction. Are you sending this one in? Btw is that acrylic or plexyglass?
 
Very cool car! The axle inside out I think will run the same as the normal way. There isn't any friction reduction by flipping is there? I have tried to build a very low to the track car in the past and had a lot of issues with it. One of the main problems I had were the over hangs in frt and back would scrape the track in the transition. Good luck and keep the new ideas coming.
 
Hey fellas,

Thanks for the tips and the words of encouragement. I have been reading past posts from some of you for a while now so it means a lot.

Anything but a flat out "This will not work" and I was planning on trying it out. It is still in it's beginning phase at this point.

Best regards,
 
I really hope you can finalize it enough to get it over to John's come the end of the month! Id love to see that go down the track! Nice creativity and you never know where more speed will come from!

WK
 
Hey TAG racing,

That is a real hoot. A builder like YOU asking MY thoughts on friction reduction.

Your humility at all times shows your mastery.

My understanding is that it is preferred to have the wheel migrate towards the head of the axle rather than the body. (such as is the case with negative cant)

It seems to me at least, that the head of the axle on polystyrene is even slicker than PTFE (teflon) on polystyrene, but that is just deduced through very unscientific means. It is probably a wrong idea since PTFE is the slipperiest substance known to man. (I have no track or tuning board). Suspending that disbelief for one second and you have ...

The wheel could have a positive rail riding cant and still migrate towards the axle head. The best of all worlds. No?

Perhaps it won't work and the axle will want to "climb" the wheel. I figured that you fellas were the best place to ask. In the end I guess no one can tell what is going to happen. You just have to try it and give it a roll.

You fellas know a great deal more about this stuff than me. I just have fun running things up the flagpole. Hopefully I can get a body or two together before the end of Oct.

Suggestions and critiques are appreciated.

Thanks,
 
laserman said:
Hey TAG racing,

That is a real hoot. A builder like YOU asking MY thoughts on friction reduction.

Your humility at all times shows your mastery.

My understanding is that it is preferred to have the wheel migrate towards the head of the axle rather than the body. (such as is the case with negative cant)

It seems to me at least, that the head of the axle on polystyrene is even slicker than PTFE (teflon) on polystyrene, but that is just deduced through very unscientific means. It is probably a wrong idea since PTFE is the slipperiest substance known to man. (I have no track or tuning board). Suspending that disbelief for one second and you have ...

The wheel could have a positive rail riding cant and still migrate towards the axle head. The best of all worlds. No?

Perhaps it won't work and the axle will want to "climb" the wheel. I figured that you fellas were the best place to ask. In the end I guess no one can tell what is going to happen. You just have to try it and give it a roll.

You fellas know a great deal more about this stuff than me. I just have fun running things up the flagpole. Hopefully I can get a body or two together before the end of Oct.

Suggestions and critiques are appreciated.

Thanks,

You could take a conventional car and turn the bent nail up instead of down and see if it picks up speed. That should prove that it has less friction at the head, wouldn't it? I believe you would need to change the front drill height of the test car to compensate for the different ride height of the flipped nail.

EDIT : Whoops, wait a minute. The wheel would be slanted the wrong way, wouldn't it? Never mind!

You would need to make an axle with the "head" in the middle and then bend it down! With a push on retainer on the outer end just to keep the wheel on when you picked it up.
 
The more I look at your car the more I see the ingenuity of the design. I have a design in my head that is no where's near as exotic as the one you have here, but it has encouraged me to move ahead with mine. Now to find the time to build it, with any luck I'll debut it in the December 63' Classic event.

Do I see an exotic class for fun only? Just kidding guys.

GX
 
wasnt sure if there was a question originally on the build about the FDW and it having to be in the traditional orientation and the problem with the lettering on the out rubbing on what appears to be a partial covering that holds the reversed axel in place. If that was a concern then using one of John's spacers could solve that problem although im not sure if its long enough to keep the outer face of the wheel with the lettering away from rubbing. The spacer is good for the street pros that essentially do something similar in that the wheel is just run reversed but the outer face of the that wheel (intimidators) are really shaved down flat so there really isnt much in the way of lettering or anything sticking out so the spacers dont need to be very long or deep.

If this wasnt a question then ignore! LOL

WK
 
Hey WK,

Actually there was a question in the original post but this is what it really is:

Is there a way to run the railriding DFW with the spokes facing the guide rail.

Someone mentioned some wheels that John makes in which the lettering is almost completely removed. (So the letters and/or beading would not bite into the guide rail. ) What class would this wheel run in? Stock?

Ideally I would like to have both front wheels with the spokes facing the guide rail. This would close off the inside of the wheel to wind. (As is seen with the non DFW ( left wheel)in the photos . Although in the photos the outside of the fenders only come halfway down, in the next version they will continue lower.

If the outside edges of the front fenders come down almost to the track effectively this would close off the entire wheel while keeping one side open. The same trick cannot be accomplished with the wheels on the "natural" way. This is because at least .25" must remain open at the bottom of the inside of the fender so that it will clear the guide rail.

Thanks.
 
laserman said:
Hey WK,

Actually there was a question in the original post but this is what it really is:

Is there a way to run the railriding DFW with the spokes facing the guide rail.

Someone mentioned some wheels that John makes in which the lettering is almost completely removed. (So the letters and/or beading would not bite into the guide rail. ) What class would this wheel run in? Stock?

Ideally I would like to have both front wheels with the spokes facing the guide rail. This would close off the inside of the wheel to wind. (As is seen with the non DFW ( left wheel)in the photos . Although in the photos the outside of the fenders only come halfway down, in the next version they will continue lower.

If the outside edges of the front fenders come down almost to the track effectively this would close off the entire wheel while keeping one side open. The same trick cannot be accomplished with the wheels on the "natural" way. This is because at least .25" must remain open at the bottom of the inside of the fender so that it will clear the guide rail.

Thanks.
The wheels are intimid8rs and would be used for street pro.
 
Laser, you are correct in the wheel migrating out to the head for the least resistance. On the DOM wheel it will migrate to the body, I have tried a few different materials for the wheel to ride on, plastics, and metals. For me the fastest on the DOM wheel have been the derlin washers. I have never had the DOM wheel riding on the head could be a very interesting test.. Keep us posted on what you find.