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[HMH Racing]

Makes sense.

 

[Guest]

thats just spacer to install the weight..thats what i did anyway..after its glued on the car i took it out

Thanks Troy,

That is correct.

The spacer is only meant to aid in installation.

After the weight is glued to the sides of the car the spacing jig is to be removed.

Thanks,
Joe

 

[HMH Racing]

Ok, got it. I thought the installer pin had the extra spacing needed built into it.

 

[Boydog]

I have read and reread this thread. I just keep coming back to it. Would it be better to use the 3/16 cubes for the additional weight so you could go thinner? Where would you put the additional weight?

 

[Bullet]

BD, that is an option. One of the cars I am currently running is built that way. It has wheel weights and is thin with 3/16" cubes to make up the rest of the weight. Where you put the rest of the weight is up to you and what your car likes...still don't think I've figured mine out yet! Although, there is a lot of discussion on weight placement out there in other threads...

 

[HurriCrane Racing]

Hey BD, like Bullet, I have also been running a car with wheel weights and 3/16 cubes. I also ran a 1/4 cube car at the same time.
In the finals last month, they ran the exact same times. 2.9685. In the prelims, they were only .0004 apart. This tells me that there isn't much difference between 3/16 and 1/4 cars. It would be interesting to know what the top pros are running. It appears that most are running 1/4". This tells me that it's more about weight placement and prep that it is how thin you can make a car.

 

[The Iceman]

Hey BD, like Bullet, I have also been running a car with wheel weights and 3/16 cubes. I also ran a 1/4 cube car at the same time.
In the finals last month, they ran the exact same times. 2.9685. In the prelims, they were only .0004 apart. This tells me that there isn't much difference between 3/16 and 1/4 cars. It would be interesting to know what the top pros are running. It appears that most are running 1/4". This tells me that it's more about weight placement and prep that it is how thin you can make a car.

+1

 

[Boydog]

I used to drag race in Jr. Stock classes. Sometimes you could make some changes that you knew would help, but it was so small that it would take several of those little changes to measure. ...

 

[OPARENNEN]

John,
The wheel weights can be used in BASX, SS and SP right?
MAGLEV

Wont work for SP. SP wheels are so thin on the outer rim that you need to run them inside out. I've tried a number of things on an SP, like using 1.5 and 1.8 wheels, which have a strengthening edge on the inside of the outer rim. But even with 1.5's, the extra 2 grams make the normal 1.0 SP wheels faster.
However, rather than using wheel weights, just glue a piece of 1/32 or 1/16 inch sheet lead on the bottom of the body. It can be any thickness as long as it clears the track. That is if the lower the weight, the faster the car (the answer to which I don't know).

I'm experimenting with SR right now. In a week or so, I will have tested this possibility, but I don't think it will be an advantage in the SR class.

 

[OPARENNEN]

Hey BD, like Bullet, I have also been running a car with wheel weights and 3/16 cubes. I also ran a 1/4 cube car at the same time.
In the finals last month, they ran the exact same times. 2.9685. In the prelims, they were only .0004 apart. This tells me that there isn't much difference between 3/16 and 1/4 cars. It would be interesting to know what the top pros are running. It appears that most are running 1/4". This tells me that it's more about weight placement and prep that it is how thin you can make a car.

In the testing I have done with my own cars, with wheel weights, 3/16ths work well. But I tried several configurations between 3/16 and 1/4 without wheel weights. 1/4 wins. I think it is because you can put more weight further to the rear. However, maybe 1/15 with slab lead glued to the bottom???

 

[OPARENNEN]

OK this will solve it all, I drew this up back in October of last year when I first heard talk of this wheel cavity weight. Here is the window for inspection of the inside of the wheel. Please excuse the crude drawing, but you'll get the idea.

I agree. I was pondering Corvid's suggestion some more and had exactly the same thought.

John's lead wheel weights look something like that.

 

[OPARENNEN]

One more trick to removing wheel weights, at least tungsten. Just apply a hot iron to the weight for 15 seconds, and they come right off. I've done this with three differents kinds of glue (2 kinds of epoxy and super glue). It works with all of them and does not ruin the body.

 

[Guest]

Hi Opa!

I beg to differ!

Please allow me to present you with this video...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M6PteoG0st4

John,
The wheel weights can be used in BASX, SS and SP right?
MAGLEV

Wont work for SP. SP wheels are so thin on the outer rim that you need to run them inside out. I've tried a number of things on an SP, like using 1.5 and 1.8 wheels, which have a strengthening edge on the inside of the outer rim. But even with 1.5's, the extra 2 grams make the normal 1.0 SP wheels faster.
However, rather than using wheel weights, just glue a piece of 1/32 or 1/16 inch sheet lead on the bottom of the body. It can be any thickness as long as it clears the track. That is if the lower the weight, the faster the car (the answer to which I don't know).

I'm experimenting with SR right now. In a week or so, I will have tested this possibility, but I don't think it will be an advantage in the SR class.

 

[Guest]

Lightnin boy, could custom Puma Wheel Weights be used with a small hole that is directly over the inside lettering. The hole could have a clear magnifier embedded so the wheel can be rotated and the lettering clearly seen? Technically it would be visible/images/boards/smilies/wink.gif

Only the dog fellas

 

[resullivan]

Are these no longer for sale? I was thinking about trying to make some of my own out of lead.

 

[B_Regal Racing]

Are these no longer for sale? I was thinking about trying to make some of my own out of lead.

I saw in another thread where John was testing a newer version. Since he hosts the NPWDRL races which I enjoy, I buy 95% of my parts with him; I'm just waiting until he is done.

http://www.pinewoodderbyonline.com/post/wheel-weights-7215708?pid=1285566985#post1285566985

 

[DerbyDad4Hire]

I am pouring some right now. The key with these is not the weight as it is the aero effect.

 

[DerbyDad4Hire]

The weights are available in the store now.

 

[ngyoung]

That's a more tolerable price. Have you tested a lead free version with zinc or steel? I assume those would weigh around 1/3 less then the lead. I think that would come out to around .4oz up to .6oz.

 

[DerbyDad4Hire]

I would get another version done but it is just not possible when people are just copying what you are making and selling it for cost. Cheap knock offs are good for the consumer initially but really hurt in the long run when the vendors are no longer able to develop and create better products.

On the other hand I think I figured out a new method for the lead last night that will make it more consistent and hopefully look a little better. I am trying to get them to .5 each. I think Lightnin Boy confirmed my theory that it is more aero than anything and these really give good coverage to the wheel.