New Items More secrets released!
- Thread starter DerbyDad4Hire
- Start date
What was the other secret on the first page? Looks like it has something to do with the raised wheel.
Hey JOHN.... You should see my new rear wheel deflectors I have made for my cars... Haven't testes but there sweet.. I don't have any wheels to test..lol
Not really in the know about other vendors copying. I know enough to see the tungsten ones you first introduced are now at a different vendor. I was mainly asking to see if there would be a lead free scout version. I know someone can make washer weights that don't have as tight of clearances for cheap. Hell one vendor is even trying to sell those for $15 which is laughable when a bag of washers are like $3.
I have 8 sets so far... I bought the sheet of stuff from Hobby Town .. The sheet was 11.99. It will make probably 20-30 sets.
N
noogaracer
Guest
re: lead free, would it work to put a coat of paint over these weights to make them kid-friendly? I'm not suggesting John doing the painting, but could they be hit with a can of spray paint by the customer? Any reason not to?ngyoung said:
- Nov 24, 2011
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I used Duplicolor wheel paint and it doesn't stick well. It pulls off when you glue them on, causing the weights to fall off easily.
Install them then paint them when you paint the car. The car in my avatar has lead wheel weights that are painted after install and they've held up fine. Just scuff and clean the surface and prime first. If you paint them before just mask the mounting points first.
If the cavity weight your using doesn't have a step for the rail or spacers insetting it into the rim you can try shimming the bottom of the weight out with 1/64 ply ( you will have to experiment with this), tack in place then go back and fill the gaps with ca glue in a couple of stages letting each application dry between stages till it won't accept any more ca. Make sure to rough the mating surfaces well and don't over apply ca between stages so it doesn't run into axle holes or drip onto the surface surrounding the axle hole.
The rear of my car is sanded to to ~3 degrees (give or take) so the fenders mate nicely to the wheel tread. So, when looking from the rear, the body of my car looks like this:
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And with wheels:
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Would this also work with the wheels weights (I have not purchased them yet)?
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And with wheels:
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Would this also work with the wheels weights (I have not purchased them yet)?
The weights go inside of the wheel cavity, so it can be made to work regardless of the wheel's angle.
From the looks of the D4D weights on Shop.DerbyDad4Hire.com, it appears that you can either file 3 degrees from the nubs on the weight, or sand/file 3 degrees from the body of your car alongside the axle hole where the nubs would mount.
YMMV.
From the looks of the D4D weights on Shop.DerbyDad4Hire.com, it appears that you can either file 3 degrees from the nubs on the weight, or sand/file 3 degrees from the body of your car alongside the axle hole where the nubs would mount.
YMMV.
I use my Silver Bullet. I wrap sandpaper around it, and set the angle with the canting pin I used to drill the axle holes.
This will sand the side of the car to the same angle.
This will sand the side of the car to the same angle.
I believe I understand the process. So, for purposes of clarification, you are moving the body across the sandpaper wrapped Silver Bullet, as it is held stationary, while at the raised canting angle. Moving the car back and forth across this generates the desired cant angle onto the body.
Great idea!
Great idea!
Safer Racer said:
I just angle me fenders and weight. The glue holds it.. I don't sand the body.. 3 degrees sanded at the top is a lot.. Depending on
How high u drill u could change your drill angle by sanding.
How high u drill u could change your drill angle by sanding.
- Nov 24, 2011
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~JBD RACING~ said:
I be anglin me fenders and weight too laddy. /images/boards/smilies/thumb.gif
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