Hey Guys. Is anyone using the new Silver Bullet Pro from DD4H? Do you know if it does different degrees of cant? From what I read it sounds like you do two axles at a time. It has 4 holes so can someone elaborate on exactly how it works? Although the price is a little steep it does seem worth it if you're building multiple cars at the same time. If I got one I would certainly help all the scouts in our pack to drill their blocks. Let me know what you think. Thanks guys.
NEW DD4H Silver Bullet Pro Questions
- Thread starter McDoodle
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- Nov 24, 2011
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You are not able to adjust degrees.
It has two holes for 3* and two holes for 0*.
Place your wood in the fixture, drill the two rears or fronts then slide the wood to the next set of holes.
It has two holes for 3* and two holes for 0*.
Place your wood in the fixture, drill the two rears or fronts then slide the wood to the next set of holes.
Bulldog just posted a video review — he raved about the perfection of the drill job as measured using the LightningBoy method and 1-2-3 blocks. And, based on the pic that John (DerbyDad4Hire) just posted, you have a choice between using the 0° angle holes, or using the 3° angle holes.
However, it uses a #43 drill bit, which is too large for standard BSA (or Maximum Velocity) axles*. You would have to use 92x sized axles (or AWANA axles).
*Adding water to the axle hole will cause the wood to swell, and might provide enough grip on the axle.
However, it uses a #43 drill bit, which is too large for standard BSA (or Maximum Velocity) axles*. You would have to use 92x sized axles (or AWANA axles).
*Adding water to the axle hole will cause the wood to swell, and might provide enough grip on the axle.
- Nov 24, 2011
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So, because of the guy I am, I'm going to have to tease you a little on this, so I hope you can laugh at it. If you can't look at the picture and tell how to use that thing, you might want to think about trying another hobby, like stamp licking or something.
$175 is steep but I stink at drilling so I may have to get it. Although I mostly drill for scouts so I may have to figure some way to make it work.
Kinser Racing said:So, because of the guy I am, I'm going to have to tease you a little on this, so I hope you can laugh at it. If you can't look at the picture and tell how to use that thing, you might want to think about trying another hobby, like stamp licking or something.
That's hilarious!
Crash Enburn said:
Depending if the bushing is a press fit or a slip fit. One could get different bushings from Carr Lane and drill for BSA axles. They make some trick bushings that are held in with a shoulder bolt to allow for quick change of the bushing. This could be a idea. But, it would surely add to the cost.
I'm assuming this new fixture is targeted at the more professional racers.
Kinser Racing said:So, because of the guy I am, I'm going to have to tease you a little on this, so I hope you can laugh at it. If you can't look at the picture and tell how to use that thing, you might want to think about trying another hobby, like stamp licking or something.
I had that coming I suppose lol. Is stamp licking a hobby? /images/boards/smilies/smile.gif
I tried stamp licking but it was too competitive and they are not as helpful on their forums. After suffering several paper cuts it was time for a change.Kinser Racing said:So, because of the guy I am, I'm going to have to tease you a little on this, so I hope you can laugh at it. If you can't look at the picture and tell how to use that thing, you might want to think about trying another hobby, like stamp licking or something.
- Nov 24, 2011
- 3,903
- 30
- 48
- 14
- Nov 24, 2011
- 3,903
- 30
- 48
- 14
Just seen bulldawg video about the fixture. Why don't someone build the fixture so it is the whole length of the car and have it where you can drill 5 inch wheel base or 4 3/4 base. Then drill the front with one side dfw and ndfw. or am I missing something. My thinking is if the whole car is in the fixture it would reduce in a bad drill job.
Someone does and his name is Goat Boy. He makes a full length solid version and a version that is fully adjustable too with a raised NDFW whole built in. It also has two other holes drilled perfectly straight across from each other which gives you options. Runs are sporadic but his quality is top notch. It is much less expensive compared to John's simple contraption. I see no improvements over the Goat Boys jig - actually it has fewer features. And being short and stubby, if your block does not fit in snugly, it can be prone to movement and misalignment. A longer jig gives you greater area to steady the block which is why a full length design assures perfect alignment. For the price, I think John could have offered a better product since Goat Boy already does. Honestly, I would much rather pay $175 for Goat Boys tool than this.
Falco - As this is John's (DerbyDad4Hire) forum, your posts seem rude. I'm sure that's not your intent.
Regarding the DFW vs. NDFW holes, with a bent DFW axle, there is no need to raise the NDFW. If you're still concerned about clearances, you can bend the NDFW axle and mount it in the opposite direction, or even flip your block upside down and drill from that side (I'm assuming that the axle holes will not be on the exact mid-line of your car).
While the smaller tool will require you to clamp in your block for the rear wheels, and then unclamp and move it for the front wheels, your main concern is getting the holes drilled exactly parallel from one another. The sides of the tool are high enough to seat your car body in there stably, as well as being long enough to prevent any diagonal movement.
I only real fault I see with this tool is that it is not configured to easily work with OOB BSA axles. And I'm sure John is already looking at that. /images/boards/smilies/thumb.gif
Regarding the DFW vs. NDFW holes, with a bent DFW axle, there is no need to raise the NDFW. If you're still concerned about clearances, you can bend the NDFW axle and mount it in the opposite direction, or even flip your block upside down and drill from that side (I'm assuming that the axle holes will not be on the exact mid-line of your car).
While the smaller tool will require you to clamp in your block for the rear wheels, and then unclamp and move it for the front wheels, your main concern is getting the holes drilled exactly parallel from one another. The sides of the tool are high enough to seat your car body in there stably, as well as being long enough to prevent any diagonal movement.
I only real fault I see with this tool is that it is not configured to easily work with OOB BSA axles. And I'm sure John is already looking at that. /images/boards/smilies/thumb.gif
V
Vitamin K
Guest
Crash Enburn said:
I'm pretty sure it's not hard to snug up a #43 hole enough to accommodate a BSA box axle. I'll try it on some scrap this afternoon after work and see what kind of results I get.
That said, I suspect that 99% of folks who are shelling out for this tool are NOT bothering with BSA box axles... /images/boards/smilies/smile.gif
little bit of water or wood glue works..not a big deal..price is a bit steep thoughVitamin K said:
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