Outlaw race help

Feb 25, 2012
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Here is a copy of our Outlaw race rules. What is the best build for these rules? I checked John's site for eliminators and seen they are out of stock. Where else can I find them?

Official Pinewood Derby Outlaw Rules

Construction Rules

The main body structure of the car must be made of wood. Cars must be NEWLY constructed

since the 2012 Pinewood Derby race. The Inspection Committee will be the final judge

and has the responsibility to disqualify those cars that do not meet these specifications.

1. Overall WIDTH shall not exceed 2 . inches. The front end should be at least one inch

wide in order to trip the finish line sensor.

2. Overall LENGTH shall not exceed seven inches. No part of the car may protrude in front

of the starting peg.

3. Overall HEIGHT is not to exceed 2 . inches.

4. Center Rail Width Clearance shall be at least 1 3/4 inches minimum along entire center length

of car.

5. Bottom Clearance shall be at least 3/8 inches from track. Fender flairs with less clearance are

acceptable as long as the center rail width clearance is the same as above.

6. The car body must have no moving parts.

Weight and Appearence

1. Weight shall not exceed 5 ounces or 141.85 grams. State of Hawaii scales and

weight standards apply.

2. No loose materials of any kind, such as lead shot, may be used.

3. The car may be hollowed out and built up to the maximum weight by the addition of

weights provided they are secured into the body by design with epoxy, cement or

screws.

4. To prevent the possibility of objects coming off the car, weights or objects must be firmly

glued, taped, or otherwise attached or affixed to the finished car. Hot glue is not

reliable and should not be used.

5. If the inspection committee deems that the weights or objects are not firmly attached to

the car, the car will be declared ineligible to race until it is satisfactorily repaired.

6. Each racer is responsible for bringing whatever supplies/tools necessary to meet these

specifications.

Details

1. Body design may be enhanced by adding other stable materials such as plastic or metal.

2. All additions must be firmly attached and conform to the size specifications.

3. Details such as steering wheels, decals, painting, and interior details are permissible as long as

the inclusion of these details does not exceed the maximum size and weight specifications.

Wheels

Modified wheels must conform to the following specifications:

1. The overall wheel diameter may not be less than 1.150” or 29.21 mm with a maximum

diameter of 1.200”.

2. Wheels must be constructed of plastic, rubber, or polyurethane.

3. Wheel hubs may be made of metal, but may never come in to direct surface contact with the

track.

4. There must be at least four wheels on the car, however, it is not required that all four wheels

make contact with the track surface.

5. Wheels must be attached directly to axle and spin freely.

The following items are PROHIBITED

1. Electronic or lighting devices

2. Liquids, wet paint, oil, sticky substances, or powders of any
kind (other than

3. Glass or excessively fragile parts

4. Wheel bearings, washers or bushings are prohibited – no object is to be placed between the

wheel hub and the body.

5. Loose objects on car.

6. The car shall not ride on any type of springs.

7. Cars must be freewheeling with no starting device or other propulsion.

8. Magnets.

Axles (nails)

1. The axles must not be attached to any device that mechanically alters rotation and spin.

Lubrication

1. Dry, fine powdered lube is permissible. Liquid oil, WD-40, silicone spray, etc. MAY NOT BE

USED.

2. Over-application of lubricant which results in excessive shedding onto the track is not

allowed and must be corrected before the car will be allowed to race.

Inspection

1. Each car must pass inspection by the official inspection committee before a car can compete.

2. The Inspection Committee has the responsibility to disqualify those cars that do not meet these

specifications.

3. In all cases, the Official 2013 Outlaw rules take precedence.

4. The decision of the Inspection Committee is FINAL

Protests

1. Any protest of a car’s compliance with the Construction rules must be filed with Race organizers

before registration closes in order to allow time for re-inspection.

2. All rules will be interpreted in consideration of the Scout Oath and Scout Law.

3. Any participant or their guardian may appeal to the Race organizers for interpretation or

clarification of these rules.

4. Any decision by the Race organizers as to clarification or revised interpretation will be

considered binding and final.

5. All disputes as to rules conflicts, interpretation, or the specifics of any race event shall be

referred to the Arbitration Committee for final determination

Maintenance

1. Once the Pinewood Derby car has been accepted by the inspection committee, no maintenance

of any kind is permitted, including additional lubrication.

Other Rules

1. If, during a race, a car leaves the track without interfering with its opponent, it shall be

considered to have ended its heat at that point.

2. If a car leaves its lane, at his sole discretion, the track chairman may inspect the track

and, if a track fault is found which probably caused the initial violation; the track

chairman may order the race to be rerun after the track is repaired.

3. If, during a race, no car reaches the finish line on the track, the car which went the

farthest in its lane shall be declared as the heat winner.

4. If, during a race, a car leaves its lane and, in so doing, interferes with another racer, then

the car at fault shall be declared to have lost the race heat.

5. Only one car may be registered by any person in the Pinewood Derby.

6. The track chairman has the discretion to re-run any race for any reason.

7. In the case of technical or mechanical difficulties the race can be terminated and no

winners will be declared.

Disclaimer: Volunteers are not responsible for damages to vehicles incurred through

normal handling during the course of the race. Special handling at the request of the

cars owners will not be given.
 
My .02 cents since we just had an Outlaw class a few weeks ago, I followed NPWDRL Unlimited rules.

Keep it simple, no longer than 7 inches long, no more than 5ozs, can be 3 wheel (not mandatory to have 4th wheel on, can be a guide pin), any kind of lube, wheels no larger than 31mm, can have any kind of canting modifications.

"Run whatcha Brung" "Go Big or go Home...."

My cars won 1st, 2nd, 3rd all 3 breaking the track record each!
 
If DD4H is out of Eliminators then I would direct you towards Jewkes XS4's, but I think they are 1.220 OD which is too big for your rules. There are guys out there that can make razors with bushings, but your rules say no bushings.... but then you rules say "Wheel hubs may be made of metal, but may never come in to direct surface contact with the track" so I am confused.

I would probably suggest to run XS4's and Dynasty ungrooved 84's.
 
From what I read you couldn't use unlimited rules because it says no bearings. I would use razor wheels with pin axels. I wouldn't use the eliminator wheels for two reasons (I have never used these wheels). 1) you have to have 4 wheels on the car and DD4H sells 3 at a time (as far as I see on the website). 2) needle axles will be faster. 3) razor wheels will be faster. Maximum velocity sells some razor wheels with needle axels. I will say that the needle axels are very difficult to work with as they bend very easily. You might even want to order extra if you do go this route. The only limit on wheels or axles I see is the diameter of the wheel, so I would just make sure the diameter matches before ordering.
 
For my packs outlaw class with simaler rules I used these wheels and axles from MaxV. These wheels are listed as 1.200 diameter which the rules you stated says (1.200 maximum) so you should be good there.

http://www.maximum-velocity.com/xliteoutlawwheels.htm

You may be able to run DD4H Dynasty pro axles with those wheels? But you would have to confirm that.

I decided against the needle axles because of the unknown condition of the track, and good thing I did becuase the stop section was brutal.

I used those wheels/axles, no canted axles holes, Rail Rider with 1" of steer, 3 wheeler of course, 5oz total weight, and a COM of 5/8" with graphite. My outlaw car weighted half as much as the others but finished at least two feet ahead of every car, every time. The other cars were all running BSA wheels, and my prep and weight placement was probably a big factor.

Here is a pic of my car.
IMAG0146_zps13d273a1.jpg