Rookie needs help

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Just a few questions, appreciate any advice. I tried searching but couldn't find the answers. Anyway,this is my son's second year racing (pack race). We have to use the axle slots and I was planning on using my dremmel to cut the slot a little deeper on one side of the front to raise that wheel, we can run on 3 wheels. Any other ideas? We aren't that advanced as far as canting, rail riding, etc but we did buy the wheels and axles from DD4H prepped. I'm just going to use the axle guide tool to insert the remaining 3 wheels and pray for the best. Does anyone suggest applying graphite to the axles and wheels before installing them? If so any tips would be appreciated. Thanks!
 
Do not use the dremmel to cut slots. I would drill just at the top or even above the slots with a #44 drill bit.It depends on the diameter of the axels some take a 45#.As far as graphite.You can use q-tips that you cut the cotton off of and just use the stems. It will be tight but you can work graphite in by rolling wheels filled with graphite.Put most of your weight in the back of car. COM mass should be anywhere from 1/2 to 1 inch in front of back axel.READ derby dads THINGS TO DO TO WIN A DERBY RACE i think thats it is right on Q.
 
[font="times new roman, times, serif"]Before you use graphite do your rules specifically say graphite only? If it says dry lube then I would use the DD4H oil process...If you dont have the DVD you need it! Also as Speed Bump said, you can use Qtips but use the Wallgreen brand they are a touch smaller and fit the wheel bore better. I didnt one time (at band camp. HAHA) and it broke off inside the wheel bore and I ruined a really nice wheel
angry
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If his wheels & axles were prepped by DD4H for graphite, then that decision is done (that is what it sounded like). It also sounds like his car might be all built already. speed bump gave him info on COM, my concern now would be alignment, trusting the slots. Without alignment, you could raise one front wheel and have the other drive a rear wheel right into the guide strip and lose every race even though you have great parts.

If the rear wheels ride away from the body (preferably out to the axle head), you can still have a pretty fast 3-wheel car by bending the running front wheel's (DFW) axle to rail ride. Its a pretty simple procedure. If you don't have John's DVD, should still be able to get guidance from the various online forums. League racers by and large drill their rears canted and don't fool with slots. Scouts might have to use them or allow the axles to be inspected.

Most importantly though, much more than running on 3 wheels or rail riding, you have to make sure that your rear wheels are properly aligned. This is where time and tools matter. If you don't have tools (Silver Bullet, drill press, etc.) you may have to 'dress the slots' (re-do them), shim or bend axles to make this happen. John's DVD has a real nice demonstration on checking for this. I think that David Meade's (otherwise somewhat outdated) book in the Scout shops probably has more info on correcting it though.

You can use anything to raise the remaining front wheel (as long as your rules allow you to do that). Extending the slot by drilling it up slightly higher, bending it up, cutting on angle with a hack saw (that half of the slot only), dremel or exacto knife a bit - you don't need to raise it much, ~ 1/32" - 1/16". Push it in tight.
 
Also if the build is not already done, or if you have the time to build a new one. Order a pre drilled block from Derbydad4hire with the slot cut in it. Perfect alignment and still following the rules. This would by far be your best option if you do not have the tools to do it your self.
 
Great advice from quicktime! I did not think of pre-drilled with slots. Thats the way to go. If you have time that is to order them.If they where prepped by john for graphite then thats that.Good Luck!
 
I bought a "EZ Tune" DD4H car online, but got a DNQ due to the fact that even though it had slots, it actually used the precision drilled holes. Our rules sadly stipulate that the factory slots must be used. The slots in the EZ Tune were also about 1/2 the width of standard slots which made axle inspection impossible. Tried to widen them with a hacksaw with no luck (my bad).

Does the DVD address canting while using the FACTORY slots or a good replication of them? In cases there you MUST use the factory slots, would it be better to try and shim the axles or bend them if you wish to run canted?
 
If that is the case you need to raise hell in your district!!! Even in the kit it states to check for squareness of the axle slots, and to repair if needed. It would come to the pure luck of who ever got the most square block. Those are some seriously flawed rules if the manufacture of their products state to check and repair, but if you do that it breaks the rules?!?!?! But it doesn't surprise me, just pisses me off!!
angry


jeff_watts said:
I bought a "EZ Tune" DD4H car online, but got a DNQ due to the fact that even though it had slots, it actually used the precision drilled holes. Our rules sadly stipulate that the factory slots must be used. The slots in the EZ Tune were also about 1/2 the width of standard slots which made axle inspection impossible. Tried to widen them with a hacksaw with no luck (my bad).

Does the DVD address canting while using the FACTORY slots or a good replication of them? In cases there you MUST use the factory slots, would it be better to try and shim the axles or bend them if you wish to run canted?
 
Sad to hear about DNQ. No dvd does not go into canting while using factory slots. I built a car this year (with my freinds son) that had to run standard wheels and slots and 4 on the ground. I shimmed and tuned it and when i was done with the tuneing i glued the axles in. I know this is not the best way but i worked for my at the time.We got third out of 81 cars so something worked ok. I don't like to bend any axels. I think someone on here one time said to drill into the slots and cant the holes. I think this would work for you but you might have to glue the axeles.
 
[font="times new roman, times, serif"]For me our pack is the same way with using the slots and my little red car this year was the original block from the kit and we used the slots provided. It was a bit tricky so for me but I used the axles that came in the kit and pre-installed them the way I wanted them, then I used DD4H axles. On the rears all you want is for the alignment to be equal so that the wheels pull away from the car body, so if you are looking at the rear of the car the tops of the wheels are tilted inward. Your DFW should be just the opposite. One thing that DD4H will tell you is watch your wheel gap, 90% of us rookies have too much gap. His post is on here about that somewhere. Anyway I feel you pain and speed bump is right on with gluing in the axles after you are done tuning...Use the clear epoxy(for inspection purposes) and just glue a little bit so you can take it off if you need...once you are done glue it and leave it as I did not one year and had parts coming off here and there. Best of luck to you [/font]
 
Jeff, some possible methods of doing what they wanted are discussed in my "How to make Scout axles inspectable" thread in this same section. I think you could have gotten slots in the OEM position from John if you worked that out in advance. The one trick I worked out which might have worked for you if you had that was to take a shallow (around 1/2 - 2/3 the slot depth) cut using a portable saw blade on a table saw (~ 1/16" kirf). That would retain the narrower gap around the axles John provided to hold the axles and still made them viewable. Another alternative would be using the full gap and gluing through the top or the bottom, but even the best quick-dry epoxy's don't seem to be totally clear, they are "translucent" yellow. I had heard that you could fill, let it totally dry and then drill, but the ones I practiced with didn't work well. Bottom line, you have to anticipate these rule issues in advance and potentially practice to find you best solution.
 
Bottom line, you have to anticipate these rule issues in advance and potentially practice to find you best solution.

Yes, I am learning that. I built my sons car for our Pack according to thier rules. So I had LWB and drilled axle holes. Worked fine on the 1960's vintage wood track and won overall Pack. Qualified for district and then found district rules made LWB an automatic DNQ. With no time to assemble new parts, bought the EZ Tune and got a DNQ over the slots. (sigh)

Also the District has a nice new aluminum track so due to the rules and track variance next year I am just going to build 2 cars!

I wonder if now is too soon to start planning?
hmmm
 
[font="times new roman, times, serif"]AH you need to be careful with that planning ahead stuff...it is a great idea and then before you know it you are thinking about it at work, in the shower, at dinner, on the drive home...and thats when you know you are an addict...YEP you are going to be addicted to Pinewood Derby Racing!!! And that is ok as you will be happy here and before you know it you will be racing in the league! Welcome to the family!!!
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dazed
it is Xciting stuff!!![/font]
 
I have a rookie question to ask.Why does the gap matter on the rear wheels if you are canting and the wheels ride the axle heads???

Thanks John
 
hhtscha said:
Just a few questions, appreciate any advice. I tried searching but couldn't find the answers. Anyway,this is my son's second year racing (pack race). We have to use the axle slots and I was planning on using my dremmel to cut the slot a little deeper on one side of the front to raise that wheel, we can run on 3 wheels. Any other ideas? We aren't that advanced as far as canting, rail riding, etc but we did buy the wheels and axles from DD4H prepped. I'm just going to use the axle guide tool to insert the remaining 3 wheels and pray for the best. Does anyone suggest applying graphite to the axles and wheels before installing them? If so any tips would be appreciated. Thanks!

One thing you have to remember is that the key to the alignment is that the rear wheels are parallel to each other. With a slot you know they have to be parallel. Just insert the rear axles into the slot and slightly cant them when you insert. Eyeball them so they look they same, make sure the gap is right and then test roll it to make sure the axles go out forward and back. Bend your front dom axle and rail run with it like you would a drilled block. The major drawback of the slots is that you almost always have to glue the axles in but they should be pretty well aligned with an eyeballed cant.
 
Thank you all for your help. My son's race is tomorrow and I have been working 15+ hours a day for the last week (military exercise). Anyway yes the car is already built. One thing that I did learn for all rookie dads that are using the pinewood block that comes in the kit is that they all don't weigh the same either. I built 2 identical cars (wedge) and one of them weighed 1.2 oz. heavier than the other. Next year I'm going to buy all the parts from DD4H. Yes we can only use dry lube (graphite). Yes we can run on 3 wheels. Yes we must use the slots. I don't have the tools to drill precisely in the slot to pass an inspection. I will definitely buy the DVD for next year. So with all that said and with the time I have left this is what I am going to try to do. I'm going to insert the rear axles in the slot and try to eyeball the cant (top of the wheels pointed in), making sure to keep the alignment straight. Insert the left dom axle in the slot, eyeball the cant, I don't want to try to bend it, (top of the wheel pointed out). Slightly deepen the right front slot with my Dremmel to raise that wheel off the ground and keep that wheel tight to the body. Epoxy all the axles in place after some rookie tuning. One question I had was the gap after canting...should I be more concerned with the wheel hub gap to body or edge of wheel gap to body (after canting)? Can someone please let a sleep deprived dad what the gap should be unless it's a trade secret than I can understand. I also think I am going to route some of the body mass under the car to to add more weight to the back and muffler tape over it. THANK YOU ALL again for your advice!!! If anyone has any last minute advice, my son and I would really appreciate it.
 
Hello,

I also am in need of some expert advice. I am trying to get ready for my 7 year old son's District PWD race. I have to build a new car because the car we built for the Pack race is not allowed in the District race due to the drilled holes for the axles. The rules at the District race state that the slots must be used ,and axles can not be bent in anyway. The rules also state that axles must be able to be removed for inspection.

The track is a 42 foot long aluminum track. I hoping it is a Best Track.

I still would like to rail ride if at all possible and stay within the rules (silly as they may be).

My initial plan was to cant the rear axles at about a 2.5 degree angle in the slot, and also cant the FDW axle at about 3.5 to 4 degrees in the slot. I am hoping to get 3.5" to 4" of steer over 4 feet, but without having a bent axle for the FDW I don't see any way to adjust the steer if my guess on the angle is incorrect.

I am planning to use wood glue in the slots in an attempt to hold the axles in place and still be able to remove them for inspection.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated, especially recommendations for the angle on the FDW and the amount of steer.

On a separate note I purchased some of DD4H's products to use on my son's previous car that we entered in his pack race. The District race has a Pro Mod class for Dad's so I hoping to have some fun there with my new Cheetah Xtreme wheels and other goodies.

Also we are planning to enter a Street Stock AM entry at the upcoming NPWDRL Nationals in New Berlin Wisconsin. I hope to meet some of you in person there.

Thanks in advance.