Silver Bullet vs Goat Boy Drill Fixture ?

I am trying to figure out how to use Goat Boy's drill fixture to drill a reverse cant dfw. Being able to drill the dfw with it would make it idiot proof for my Cub. I've been experimenting and it would seem that to make the axle hole the correct height the car would need to be a little more that 1/4" thick. It would be great if my kid could drill the front axle with the fixture rather than trying to drill with the press and the silver bullet. Please tell me if there is another way...1/4 thick car is tough for a kid to work with, too many super thin bodies have been ruined trying to put in wheels and axles.
 
W&K Creations said:
Both are extremely good tools. Like you I don't have a drill press, however in my case I opt to get my blocks from John instead.

I think it would be fair to say that the gold standard would be the block/silver bullet... no matter how precisely square the wood is (or perhaps unprecisely is the better term), the block will allow you to drill your rear axel holes in perfect relation to one another irrespective of the wood....

I used Ian's tool like it was going out of business for my pack race....there were kids and parents in line for me to drill a hole into the precut slots and it made everyones life much much easier!!!! (MUCH THANKS IAN FOR THE TOOL!) However I did notice a few issues....for it to drill both rear axels nice and straight in relation to one another, it has to fit nice and snug on the block and your at least partially relying on the block itself to be decently cut and square....and if the kids already started sanding the block or shaping it then it can be difficult to either get it fit snug or fit so the holes are exactly perpendicular to the body. Even when it fit well, I had to clamp it down hard to prevent it or the block from moving around when I was drilling.

But I think these are all very minor issues that I knew going in and fact is, even with that its still 10x better than using the slots by themselves or handrilling without it or whatever people were doing before....A bunch of people were asking where I bought it (particularly since it has both straight drill holes and canted drill holes!)

Maybe Ian could comment on some suggestions for those cars that don't quite fit snug or ideas on some of the stuff I mentioned....I was putting tape on the sides or a papertowel to make it snug at times....clamps are fine but some people wanted me to drill the holes and the car was already painted....and im like damn I don't want to dent the paint and body with a clamp!

But my solution is next year, im going to make it a point to say that if people want their block and slots drilled out then I need to do it before they start shaping the car!!! (I know, kinda common sense) I think that should take care of most of the concerns I saw this year.

But if you want Ian's one better order fast LOL...I haven't checked recently but there was only a small supply left!

WK
Click to expand...

Our pack requires use of the original slots. When drilling holes, do you guys fill the original slots with something (epoxy?) and then drill or are the slots narrow enough to allow good holes without filling?
 
Thanks, guys. I think you are both saying to abandon the original slots other than for hole location, drill holes in the opposite side of the block then cut new/false slots.
 
gdurban said:
Thanks, guys. I think you are both saying to abandon the original slots other than for hole location, drill holes in the opposite side of the block then cut new/false slots.
Click to expand...

You got it! You still used the slots (to locate the holes and new slots) so you are in compliance with the rule.
 
Cramjet said:
One of my scouts won a Block! So, as soon as I find a drill press I can use, there's gonna be some drillin'!
Click to expand...

Could you use a pin vice drill with it? Slow but might work until you score a drill press
 
Kinser Racing said:
You got it! You still used the slots (to locate the holes and new slots) so you are in compliance with the rule.
Click to expand...

Nice rule interpretation....I like it!!!!

Of course, if that is that they meant, there would be no need to cut the new slots.....
AddEmoticons08013
 
I have (4) good tools for drilling blocks, this includes a couple of GoatBoy's tools, the Silver Bullet and an adjustable angle block. It's great being able to exploit the advantages of each. I test every piece of wood first though on my granite block and make sure it lays perfectly flat on that block before I use it. I push down on all four corners and make sure it doesn't give any on each. You can almost hear a perfectly flat block being sucked down onto the granite block when you set it down. You can sand the bottom some to get there, but I tend to go on to the next piece. For the adjustable angle block (which I needed to use for my very wide body big rig), the reference point is the side wall of the block so you have to make sure that is also perfectly plumb to the bottom.
 
Can't beat the granite surface plate for checking flatness! Makes for a great sanding surface too. I mount the block in the SB when sanding. The weight of the SB is just enough to hold it down for light sanding, cleans up nicely for a flat even surface. I use a sticky back sandpaper to secure it to the granite surface plate.
 
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