Want To Build A Street Pro Car

KGL

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Dec 15, 2013
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I am thinking about building a Street Pro car. What is the best body style to use? What is a good wheelbase? Should I use three fenders or just put them on the rear of the car? How about guide pins? I've seen pictures of cars with bent axles, u-shaped wire like a paper clip, plastic fins and some with large diameter shaft in the axle hole that are bent and taper down to like fine wire with a ball on the end (is that a good description?).

Any other suggestions / tips would be great!

I know that this is a lot of questions from a guy new to league racing, but thanks in advance for your help!

Sam
 
As some one said before, "thin to win", in other words 1/4" plank style. Guide pin a must, because you won't be using a 4th wheel in the SP class. DD4H sells these guide pins. Wheel base will vary by each racer, as will only 2 fenders or 3 fenders. Typically you'll see a 5" wheelbase and 2 fenders, as mentioned this will vary between racers. A small plastic bead on the guide pins will be used by some racers and others choose not to use one. There is no written in stone formula for the perfect SP car. Each build will vary, even if the same builder built the car.
 
others with more experience can chime in but if this is your first attempt, the easiest way is to get a block from John, 3 wheel canted, extended wheelbase, (you can get the legend wedge as part of the package or sand it down yourself)....he also has other models (ladder style, X style etc) all designed to reduce the weight of the body so more weight can be positioned where you want it using tungsten cubes.

I believe Intimidators are the wheels for the SP that John sells....just be careful with them as a lot of material has been removed inside and outside such that they are somewhat delicate and easy to crack

dynasty 92x axels or their equivalent work well and if you don't have the experience or tools to bend one of them for the FDW, get one already bent when you order.

Don't do what I did and run the rear wheels in the usual orientation....because of the tread is thin most people run their rear wheels reversed so that the pressure on the wheels edges are over the area where the wheel is most rigid....in this case you need wheel spacers.

As GX said get the guide pin as well (im not really sure if the type of pin makes a huge difference...I don't think so....If your car gets wiggling or moving so that the guide pin was touching the rail then certainly one with a Teflon ball or sanded smooth etc would have the least friction, but honestly if your pin is rubbing a lot on the rail your car has bigger problems than the pin itself)....on the track shouldn't be an issue without it since the car is steering away from that side (although its still possible if the car wiggles that it could jump off unexpectedly and a guide pin can help prevent that) but its really important when the car hits the end of the track that it doesn't fly off the stop section since the car no longer is steering anymore and can go in any direction.

Use tungsten weight cubes for the weights (or any substitute youd like to get the weight were you want it...however the precut weight pockets were designed to fit tungsten cubes nicely!).....As for prep and polish processes refer to the large amounts of data and posts on the forums...there is all you need in these posts to build a great SP car or any car class!

Good luck!

WK
 
W&K - thanks for the info on starting with a pre-drilled DD4H body. I'll have to send an order in!
 
BulldogRacing said:
does anyone have a picture of how to install spacers for a reverse wheel install or a description. thanks.

John's spacers for SP are not the same as for SS or ELIM.
They have a step built in. I.e. the there are two ODs on them.
The large side goes against the body, and the narrow one against the wheel.
As mentioned b4, put the wheels on backwards.
When you look at the wheel closely, you can see why 2 steps are necessary.
Go to the DD4H website, enlarge the picture of the spacers, and you can see the step