Washer question

[Guest]

I bought some of this PolyZap a while back but have not tried it yet.

http://www.zapglue.com/special/

Years ago I did a project in polypropylene and it was a total drag to glue it.

After searching a little I found an epoxy. This hardly worked too unless...

When the piece is scuffed up enough.

When this happens the glue/ epoxy is not so much adhering to the surface as filling in the the undercuts in the scratches and not giving when pulled.

Nothing will stick to this stuff.

In essence one is making a cold connection with glue. Sounds like an oxymoron I know.

 

[Guest]

I have some of that teflon sheet too. Mine does not have adhesive backing either, but the description does say the sheet comes with the adhesive backing. Most likely there is an error in the description on the McMaster Carr web site.

The "adhesive backing" I interpreted to mean as:

Not nearly as hard to glue as Teflon or Delrin (which is just about impossible to glue).

The brown stuff on the back of the Teflon takes glue much easier.

EDIT: I see that BR already addressed the question of the backing in Teflon.

 

[zeebzob]

Bracket racer - you are right, my mistake. The question then becomes what is the best adhesive to use to put this on your car? I tried CA on a sample to wood but when the glue dries it seems to be brittle. Touch the teflon just wrong and it would pop right off the body.

I have had this issue too. I think I'm good, then POP.
Anyone else have a technique they want to share?

 

[Bullet]

On my new fleet of cars I just sanded the washers and glued with CA like described here somewhere earlier. I then used a .0910" or .0915" reamer to clean it up and match the drilled holes. My washers have stayed on after multiple pulls of the axles. I think this takes the bind off of them when pulling. The hubs don't run that tight to the axles anyway. Just my 2C...

 

[Guest]

I will share my method which seems to work just fine.

When gluing the teflon guide fin on Joes car Crystal(made of acrylic), I glued it on upside down at first and I had to slice it off to get it off- it would not "break" off when I tried to remove it.

Besides the basic scuffing of both surfaces, also scuff the outer "tread" of the washer, after the washer is glued on I carefully dab the most minute amounts of super glue into the crevices between the perimeter of the washer and car body. When the glue is starting to set up carefully sand the outer perimeter of the washer and the wood just around the washer, making sure to push all the sanding dust into the cracks. Sometimes I use a toothpick to imbed the dust into the glue. If this is repeated a couple times, it will be strong. The key is to not get glue on or scuff the part of the washer where the wheel rides. I have yet to have one separate- knock on wood!

 

[Kinser Racing]

Bracket racer - you are right, my mistake. The question then becomes what is the best adhesive to use to put this on your car? I tried CA on a sample to wood but when the glue dries it seems to be brittle. Touch the teflon just wrong and it would pop right off the body.

I have had this issue too. I think I'm good, then POP. Anyone else have a technique they want to share?

They'll pop off if you're not moderately careful. If you rough up one side and use the Gorilla Glue CA it should work. It does for me.

 

[GravityX]

Bracket racer - you are right, my mistake. The question then becomes what is the best adhesive to use to put this on your car? I tried CA on a sample to wood but when the glue dries it seems to be brittle. Touch the teflon just wrong and it would pop right off the body.

I have had this issue too. I think I'm good, then POP. Anyone else have a technique they want to share?

This is how I do it without washers.

 

[Eliminator Racing]

Gravity, Do you drill your body before you put on your teflon or after? ....... Craig

 

[GravityX]

Gravity, Do you drill your body before you put on your teflon or after? ....... Craig

I drill the body before I install the inserts.

 

[B_Regal Racing]

I've tried running with delrin washers in the front only (FDW) and in the front and rear. I do show a few thousandths of a second gain with front washers (so I believe they are necessary in the front), but saw no significant gain running them in the rear; but I did see an increase in ibuprofen ingestion. So GX (buddy, pal, life-long friend, etc.), what is that and where are you getting it? It looks so much easier to work with and can save me time and money, mostly consisting of numerous trips to the pharmacy.

 

[GravityX]

Drawer slide tape this is only one example, there are many other slide tapes out there.

 

[B_Regal Racing]

UPDATE: I never really believe anyone until I try it (but I always take advice, so do not stop offering it). In any case, I now believe it is better to have to have a friction plates on the rear wheels (I always use them on the front, since I found out about them anyway). I went back and installed either washers or the slides on the rears of some of my older cars and in some cases, I got a slight increase in speed and in other cases, I saw no improvement. What I did not see is a decrease in performance.

That being said, those delrin washers are a nightmare to install (and its been said before). Instead of using CA glue, I tried JB Wood Weld to simply the installation. It was sooooooooo much easier. Wood weld is a bit thick and does not drip / run everyway. It allows me the place the washer on precisely with no residue on the outside to the washer and dries in 5 minutes. What is left is a well attached washer using very little effort. A quick cleanout of the axle hole and you are ready to go. No prying apart of your fingertips or whatever else you may have touched after using CA glue...

Yep - I'm learning...

 

[Eliminator Racing]

Always hated playing with CA glue and cleaning the residue off the washer! BRR thanks for the tip!

Craig

 

[plhiatt]

Has any one tried the "slick strips"? Its a like tape and made to stick on wooden
fences for woodworkers, or drawer slides. Its only 32nd thick.
It can be cut to size

 

[ngyoung]

I was just looking at getting a roll of it to try. I thought someone here has it.

 

[ngyoung]

Spacewalker has a youtube video showing how he inlays his glide strips like how you described. He has a nice 3 part tutorial for how he makes his ladder body cars. Part 3 has the slide strip install.

62 Ultra Light 3of3: http://youtu.be/LOf2P4zWqOI

I will share my method which seems to work just fine.

When gluing the teflon guide fin on Joes car Crystal(made of acrylic), I glued it on upside down at first and I had to slice it off to get it off- it would not "break" off when I tried to remove it.

Besides the basic scuffing of both surfaces, also scuff the outer "tread" of the washer, after the washer is glued on I carefully dab the most minute amounts of super glue into the crevices between the perimeter of the washer and car body. When the glue is starting to set up carefully sand the outer perimeter of the washer and the wood just around the washer, making sure to push all the sanding dust into the cracks. Sometimes I use a toothpick to imbed the dust into the glue. If this is repeated a couple times, it will be strong. The key is to not get glue on or scuff the part of the washer where the wheel rides. I have yet to have one separate- knock on wood!

 

[Guest]

A few weeks ago I dropped a car during a late night session. It fell over 4' and bounced off a cross member for the band saw, then fell the remaining 8" to the concrete. No wheels were on it thankfully.

I started looking the car over for damage and couldn't find any until my eyes scoped out one of the rear teflon washers. The point of impact was all on one washer, right where the washer barely protruded past the bottom of the car. It was actually compressed and partly blocking the axle hole- the washer took all the impact and still held tight!! A quick twist of the reamer brought everything back to good.

 

[B_Regal Racing]

I was just looking at getting a roll of it to try. I thought someone here has it.

Gravity uses it in the rears and provided a link. He has a nice picture of his car with the drawer slide used as a friction plate in this thread. I tried it myself and did not see much gain if any, but I did not see a reduction at all. It was super easy to install just using the adhesive backing. I can not come up with a negative in using the teflon drawer slide used as a friction plate and I'm probably not a good enough builder to determine if a delrin washer is faster than the teflon drawer slide. For me, it adds a comfort factor if/when the wheel touches the body.

 

[OPARENNEN]

UPDATE: I never really believe anyone until I try it (but I always take advice, so do not stop offering it). In any case, I now believe it is better to have to have a friction plates on the rear wheels (I always use them on the front, since I found out about them anyway). I went back and installed either washers or the slides on the rears of some of my older cars and in some cases, I got a slight increase in speed and in other cases, I saw no improvement. What I did not see is a decrease in performance.

That being said, those delrin washers are a nightmare to install (and its been said before). Instead of using CA glue, I tried JB Wood Weld to simply the installation. It was sooooooooo much easier. Wood weld is a bit thick and does not drip / run everyway. It allows me the place the washer on precisely with no residue on the outside to the washer and dries in 5 minutes. What is left is a well attached washer using very little effort. A quick cleanout of the axle hole and you are ready to go. No prying apart of your fingertips or whatever else you may have touched after using CA glue...

Yep - I'm learning...

I use this same JB Wood Weld to attach the Puma inner wheel weights. It works great, but it has to dry over night. After drying, if attached to wood, if you try to remove the weights, they will tear some of the wood off also. In my case, I first covered the car with EconoKote, including the sides. Later, when I decided to put the weights on a different car, the weights pulled off easily, but took a piece of the EconKote with them. No problems though, it was easy to clean the residue off the weights, and if necessary, apply a new sheet of EconoKote to the old car.

 

[B_Regal Racing]

I use this same JB Wood Weld to attach the Puma inner wheel weights. ... I first covered the car with EconoKote, including the sides. Later, when I decided to put the weights on a different car, the weights pulled off easily, but took a piece of the EconKote with them. No problems though ...

Sweet and thank you a ton. That was my one and only reason for not trying the Puma weights. My cars aren't that fast, but I do save a select few and did not want to ruin them while harvesting the weights for the next car. Thanks - you pushed me over the edge. There are tons of positives for the use of these weights.

< a little off topic, but I was really hoping someone would figure this out. I'm not that smart >

Awsome spacewalker video on slide glide installation...and...I should be a little faster next race.