BlewBYu said:At what point do wheels HAVE to be run in reverse? I am running 1.1 G wheels and I've never run wheels this light before.
+1 thats good advice right thereCramjet said:It should vary with WHERE the weight is removed, but from my understanding, the Dynasty Nitro wheels John sells at 1.4g should be fine, but the Nitro Mid America wheels, at 1.2g have a little too much flex to be run in back where the weight rests on them. Knowing what I know now, I would just get the regular Nitros and not the Mid Americas. One of my scouts had a Mid America wheel break at the pack race.
i dont care what it says i know what i have testedbracketracer said:Guys, it says on Derby Dad's site that the Nitro Mid America cut wheels are ok to run conventional or reversed at 1.1-1.3g.
txchemist said:...Another thought , might there be some benefit to a modest amount of flex in a wheel.Perhaps acting as a shock absorber through the bottom of transition curve, and releasing flex ( stored energy) through the flat. It might be possible to have less overall steering and quicker times with a very small amount of wheel flex. I would love to see a controlled test done with a high speed video showing varying amounts of wheel flex and its ultimate consequences or rewards.
The best this magic process could do would be no net effect- all the "stored energy" of the flex comes from somewhere, and at best you only can get 100% of it back. But if you think about it- try dropping a ball off a smooth surface, it can store energy as it compresses, and then release energy as it bounces back- but it never gets back to 100% of the height you drop it from. Where does the lost energy go? Heat- noise. Same with a flexing wheel. flex will lose energy. Car will be slower than a wheel of equal weight and moment of inertia that does not flex. Hard to say if a wheel so light it flexes will still beat a heavier wheel with no flex. I think as long as flex does not permanently deform wheel- lighter still wins.
TRE said:you lose 005 in my test if the flex
txchemist said:Ouch- so many problems- let's start with the first
It could be possible that even with a return of perhaps 98-99%, the car could be faster due to when the stored energy is ultimately applied, thus allowing something like less steer, ultimately netting in overall performance gains.
sorry- this is a type of magical thinking. Take away the magic of needing less steer ( we will get into that later) and just imagine a car loses 2% of it's energy when the wheel flexes right at the max force in the curve. Now if that car can roll all the way up to the last foot of track, and then get all that 2% back- it's overall time is slow all the time the wheel is flexed so when do we wish the wheel stopped flexing and gave back the energy? the correct answer is as soon as possible so we get back to max speed for the longest time. So now we do not need magic, just a bit of work to see if a flexing wheel needs less steer.- but it needs less steer for a few nano seconds at one little spot, all the rest of the time- we need our steer. If you watch many videos you might see more than a few cars make it all the way to within a few feet of the finish and start wiggling.
One could conclude the car had good steer at high speeds, but needed more steer when it slowed near the finish. Now you imagine a car that just lost 2% of it's speed needs less steer?
TRE said:I got a track a timer and all i know is the thinner flexible wheels are slower..thats the bottom line
plhiatt said:Okay, Here is another question on those wheels.....
I have one car that has 1.7 gram wheels
4 3/8th wheel base with wheels pushed back in rear
front and rear fenders (no trailing fenders)....
4" in 4'
The other car has the 1.2 grams on it
5.25 wheel base
leading and trailing fenders
3" in 4'
They are both getting almost exactly the same times on a 35' best track,
Witch one would be best to run on a 42' track given the above specs?
Both are fast in 35'.
and both have more than 4oz weight added.
Any help appreciated on what car to run.