Wheel Gap Question
- Thread starter Prozach2
- Start date
I’m sure others will weight in shortly, but I’ll share what I’ve learned. The amount of gap needed will vary based on how well your axles fit your hubs. The goal is to have enough gap so that your wheel won’t bind between the body and axle head when it wobbles to its most extreme angle. Closer tolerances between axle and hub allow for very tight gaps - maybe as small as .005. Sloppy tolerances may require.020 or more. A tuning board will help you figure out what works best for you.
My body broke when I tried to push in the axle. It also cracked on the back axle. I’m going to cut another body today and leave more meat on the car. Are there any other tips/thoughts for pushing the axles in or drilling the holes? I’m using the silver bullet extreme and a hand drill to drill the holes. DD4H has a video. I’m basically doing it just like that. I was wondering if I should maybe go back and forth with the drill or something. It feels like I’m having to push the axles way to hard to get them to go in.
Thank you to everyone for your help!
Thanks T-Bone. I have a slot and a 3 degree bend in the FDW axle. No bend or slots in the other axles. I've got plenty of 1/64" birch, so adding that shouldn't be a problem. II had some hairline cracks in the rear axle also. I wasn't worried about the front axle b/c it's easy to make that wider. But, if I make the back axle any wider, the the tungsten cube will stick out. I was thinking about glueing that tungsten cube into place before I pushed in the axles. That would probably give it more stability.
I’m not a pro by any means, but if you make another body I would relax the holes by installing axles before cutting it into a ladder. Install a couple times in each hole then cut out the weight. My two cents which have worked for me.
Another thing you could try is putting an axle into a pair of axle extraction pliers, and slowly twisting in and out of the hole. I’ve probably done that to all of my cars at least once.
LOL, had no idea there was such a thing as "axle extraction pliers". I'm assuming that's something I'd have to order from a pinewood derby website right? Or is that something I could get at a hard wood store. I was kinda wondering how I was going to get those axles out w/o damaging them or the wheels. I don't mind cutting another body, but I don't have time to prep more wheels and axles.
Yes, pinewood derby tool. It’s very helpful in removing axles as well.
https://derbyevolution.com/all-products/ols/products/axle-extraction-pliers
https://derbyevolution.com/all-products/ols/products/axle-extraction-pliers
Relax the holes using an old axle and a pair of needle nose pliers. I have a set of the axle pliers but don't use them on prepped axles as they can damage the underside of the head.
My plan is as follows:
1. Drill two blocks and put some unprepped axles in the holes.
2. Cut up the body that cracked and try to push those axles out w/out damaging them or the wheels. No big deal if I mess them up b/c I have another prepped set that's untouched. Those will go on my younger kid's car that is competing for a certificate in the "sibling race".
3. Cut and assemble two new bodies.
4. When I put the prepped wheels and axles in, I'll leave more gap than I need.
5. Brian, when I bring the cars up to your house to test them out, can you help us find the ideal steer and wheel gap?
I got you a small gift to show my appreciation.
My plan is as follows:
1. Drill two blocks and put some unprepped axles in the holes.
2. Cut up the body that cracked and try to push those axles out w/out damaging them or the wheels. No big deal if I mess them up b/c I have another prepped set that's untouched. Those will go on my younger kid's car that is competing for a certificate in the "sibling race".
3. Cut and assemble two new bodies.
4. When I put the prepped wheels and axles in, I'll leave more gap than I need.
5. Brian, when I bring the cars up to your house to test them out, can you help us find the ideal steer and wheel gap?
I got you a small gift to show my appreciation.
Yep, we'll get it sorted!
We made three ladder bodies and all three broke when we put in the axles. So, we made two more last night. We put axles in the axle holes right after we drilled it (before cutting and sanding the bodies). We also increased the rib for the front axle from 1/4” to about 5/16”. That did the trick.
Thanks for the help guys!
Hey guys,
A couple of things... If you use poplar to make your car bodies, it will cause the axles to feel very tight when inserting or extracting them. varieties of pine will make it much easier to install or remove the axles.
Also, ensure you are using a #43 drill bit when drilling your cars. This will allow your stock axle to easily go in as well. There are places in the forum that say #44 for scout, but I feel that is too tight, and you will end up doing more damage than good.
You should be able to push your axles in with your fingers.
A couple of things... If you use poplar to make your car bodies, it will cause the axles to feel very tight when inserting or extracting them. varieties of pine will make it much easier to install or remove the axles.
Also, ensure you are using a #43 drill bit when drilling your cars. This will allow your stock axle to easily go in as well. There are places in the forum that say #44 for scout, but I feel that is too tight, and you will end up doing more damage than good.
You should be able to push your axles in with your fingers.
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