Recent content by ngyoung

That's why most people here do not use Derby Worx products or tools. They are junk.

You gauge the steer by referencing the distance the DFW travels, not the center of the car. The starting point of your inch marks don't start from the center of your car, they start on the edge of the board where your DFW is starting as well. So looking at your video it looks like it traveled...

With the cant on the DFW the NDFW should already be off the ground with a straight axle. If not just giving it a very slight bend isn't a big deal . What kind of axles are you working with? I think I would maybe try to use your axle from the NDFW side and bend it based on your outlaw wheel...

At this point i sont see why John doesn't just upload it to youtube now that he isn't selling it. To be honest eveey topic on it is covered on this forum so there arent any secrets left on it. Its convenient to watch someone go through all the steps vs read them. I also think he would drive...

Yeah you don't want your rear wheels sliding around at all. You put graphite on them and any little bump that throws your car off line will send them sliding back and forth. That DFW against the rail is a key friction point and is going to be sliding some as it spins and tries to travel...

It can take some practice getting the holes just loose enough to be able to install and remove the axles without damaging the wheel and also snug enough so when you do tune it that the setting won't move very easily if it has a rough stop. For my son's cars we add a glue hole on the bottom for...

IF I was really on a budget and just wanted to worry about making one car I would do this: DD4H pre-drilled block 92TX axles free with BASX wheels special *optional Graphite ultra fine sandpaper kit from Hobby Lobby 40% off with online coupon Novus 2 or plastX polish. --wheel bores walgreens...

The only axle that has cant is the DFW for steering purposes with razor wheels.

Now another question i have...Would it be better to leave the double step to keep that little bit of weight near the center of the wheel and be able to shave a little more off the inside the the perimeter? Or is having the coned outer hub make a bigger impact? I know for all my retired wheels...

Just finished tuning this morning and had the boys practice staging. Usually we have everything all done a week early but i didnt like how the wheels looked after the pack race so we order 2 sets from DD4H. I got them very quick from john and were able to take our time prepping. Spring weather...

Ours is tomorrow too. Always nervous for my scouts. Even after the first heat and seeing a good run i stay tense praying the cars dont have a crash. Our district uses a 8 lane track and you have to ho through 16 heats with prelims and finals.

Wondering if cutting off the wheel bores from another set of junk wheels and using those as the spacers would work. Probably not the time for that experiment though.

Your ground clearance still maintained with that plate on the bottom like that? You don't want that to skim the track in the curve. Going past 6.5 OZ also has diminishing returns for these cars. Also having those 1g ultralight wheels I would be worried about even going that heavy and causing...

So with you not touching the outer hub anymore and leaving the double step are you leaving the contact area un-touched by the lathe? Wouldn't your removal and coning of the outer hub still be preferred if you had a choice since it gets trued to the wheel bore? Have you developed a process for...

Yes. It is a balance. You want the wheels to ride on the edge and also not touch the body of the car. Ideally you would want them to ride between the body and the axle head and never touch either but that is impossible to achieve without perfect conditions and even then it would be a...