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[Guest]

Hi fellas,

I did a quick step by step to show how to attach the weights to a car.

Here it is:

I like 1/32" material better than 1/64" veneer (.015") as the spacer off the body.

You can always double up the 1/64" veneer.



Here I attached the 1/32" clear acrylic to the weights.

After that I put the spacer in a wheel to center the weight.

Make sure that the flat of the recessed portion is fairly parallel to the bottom of the car and tack it in place with some thick CA glue.



After that tack it in place on top of the car.



Now you can take the wheel and spacer out of there and really glue it in place.



after everything is well glued in place I will sand the veneer spacer to make it more aero. I hope this has been helpful.

 

[Guest]

 

[TRE]

why do you need the veneer spacer

 

[Guest]

Lol!!! Now that fella is really intense.

Hi Troy,
I use the veneer spacer for 2 reasons.

- to give a large contact area for the glue between the weight and the wood.
The wood to wood joint is much easier to glue so the contact area does not need to be as large.

- to set the weight a bit further into the void so that it does not add to the aero profile.

 

[bracketracer]

You're welcome Lightning Boy. I'd recommend punch in a 1/4" relief hole from below just past the axle holes axis, centered around 3/4" from either side. I'd use a 4-fluted end mill on my drill press for this job. I'd give credit to 5 Kids and Spirit for teaching me this cool trick. Maglev

Setting aside the Puma washer weights for a moment and going old school with two rows of six ¼” cubes behind the rear axles . . . I’m trying to understand how drilling a ¼” hole in the middle of a ¼” wide rear strut wouldn’t compromise its strength. For rear axle alignment, is it not critical to have a solid wood strut that spans the entire width of the car? How wide and how deep are you making the rear strut? If you don’t mind, could you post a pic? Thanks.

Cygnus, you only need to plunge the end mill enough to just uncover the axle hole. Since the rears are canted that puts the axle tip very close to the bottom of the car body already. You don't need to fully expose the hole. I only use an 1/8" end mill myself, just enough to get a small flat blade screwdriver tip in there.

 

[cygnus]

Thanks guys...some great info! /images/boards/smilies/smile.gif

 

[Maglev]

Thanks BR 1/8" end mill ordered.

 

[down4derby]

Ok traditionally we run 4 rows of cubes, 2 in front of rear axle line and 2 behind. I took my fastest ss at the time "slimetime" and installed wheel weights on it. This allowed me to remove 5 or 6 cubes from in front of the axle line with half of that weight now behind the axle line and further up the hill. I did nothing else to the car but remove cubes and add wheel weights, no 're prep and it picked up a few thou. The next car I built with them sent me to the finals for the first time. One thing to understand with the new tungsten weights is the ability to go thinner on the body and create a more aerodynamic trailing edge whith an aggressive com.

 

[Guest]

Ok. So D4D laid out in this last post probably the most obvious benefit of this weighting system.
Even fitting two rows of 1/4" cubes behind the axle line was a bit tricky if you wanted your wheels to be as far back on the car as possible.
Now a builder can fit the equivalent of almost 3 rows of cubes back there and still have the wheels all the way back.
This combination of facts means more potential energy with the wheels still on the hill, in addition to the quicker rotational moment that goes with it.

Minions also posted that his recent victories were due in part to being able to get more weight farther back.

Now I know that it has been posted many times that too much weight back there will decrease the COM to less than what is needed to prevent the wiggles.
However, probably due to getting some of the COM so much lower on the car, I found my cars to have a COM that was more like 3/4" rather than my usual 5/8"

To say it another way, even though there is less weight in front of the axle line the COM Increased

This was checked on a car with a shape that may have contributed to this phenomenon so if any of you fellas can verify/ discredit this I would appreciate it.
Thanks

 

[Guest]

Thanks dog, well said!! I'm definitely going to use them and can see the value in em.

 

[Guest]

Thanks dog, well said!! I'm definitely going to use them and can see the value in em.

LOL!!!! You got skills fella!

That is one intense kitty cat.

 

[Guest]

The cat was probably smiling when this picture was taken/images/boards/smilies/rofl.gif/images/boards/smilies/crazy.gif

 

[Double Ds]

where can you find spacewalker's video's.

web page ?????????

 

[TRE]

Spacewalker has videos on youtube

 

[GravityX]

where can you find spacewalker's video's.

web page ?????????

Try this.

 

[Double Ds]

Thanks It wasn't what I thought it was. But thanks again

 

[Guest]

Hi fellas,
Any feedback on the weights is greatly appreciated.
What do you think of them?
Thanks,
Joe

 

[TRE]

Love em Joe

 

[HMH Racing]

Hi Tom,

Please keep us updated as to the verdict from the Northern Star Council.

Thanks,
Joe

Sure thing Joe. The NSC rules will be finalized this month so I won't know until about September.

However, I'm 90% certain the Puma weights won't be allowed. The rule language is clear that inside wheel lettering and numbers must be visible, and we don't do tear downs so its really the only logical conclusion.

I am not as concerned with seeing the lettering but I think they will not be allowed because of the Teflon/nylon insert in the weight. Our rules do not allow bushings, sleeves, washers or bearings. I may have to remove the insert so they will be legal.

 

[TRE]

thats just spacer to install the weight..thats what i did anyway..after its glued on the car i took it out