Just use vinyl and you won't have this problem .. That's too much work I can apply vinyl to a car in about 2-3 mins. Finished..
rear wheel alignment?
- Thread starter davet
- Start date
Where are you getting this vinyl, and are you printing images on it? I see lots of guys doing that now.
rpenning1970 said:
Airplane model shops, or Google on internet. (MonoKote or EconoKote)
Others go to print shops and get left over plastic that print shops use to print transparent signs that go on windows.
On my table it rolls dead straight forward and backwards. Rears go to heads in both directions. I install my bent axle and set steer at 4" over 4'. DFW weight .65 and COM of .724. Can't get rid of the rear wobble. Seems to lessen a little with the DFW weight up around .68 - .72. Rear gap pretty tight. Should I keep it more aggressive and allow the wobble or weight up the front?
Last years car was very fast with the same numbers. I run it down my track and dead straight as it raced last year with 4" of steer.
Last years car was very fast with the same numbers. I run it down my track and dead straight as it raced last year with 4" of steer.
It was going nice the last couple runs that day. Reprepped the wheels as race is Sat. and she won't stop wobbling.
Actually, if I twist the rear axles 1/4 towards the back turn giving some toe out the wobble is nearly gone but she doesn't run a sstraight with the straight axle in the DFW hole this way.
Actually, if I twist the rear axles 1/4 towards the back turn giving some toe out the wobble is nearly gone but she doesn't run a sstraight with the straight axle in the DFW hole this way.
I have an SS car that was very fast on one or two of the runs, but always lost out because of a bad occasional wiggle.
That car "BLUE HOLE" will be running this Saturday. I finally solved the wiggle problem by decreasing the gap on the front two wheels, by shortening the gap on the NDW. The total gap between the two front wheels to the track, is now just a bit more than 1/16". This may be too long of an answer, but the point is, shorten the front wheel total gap, and leave the rears alone.
That car "BLUE HOLE" will be running this Saturday. I finally solved the wiggle problem by decreasing the gap on the front two wheels, by shortening the gap on the NDW. The total gap between the two front wheels to the track, is now just a bit more than 1/16". This may be too long of an answer, but the point is, shorten the front wheel total gap, and leave the rears alone.
THANK YOU LIGHNINBOY!!!. Just so u guys know, LB spoke with me over the phone for over 20 minutes yesterday explaining his test, what to look for and possible fixes for our wobble. All 2.95's and a single 2.96 today. 2nd Place in Pack to a guy who hit a 2.91 and is the annual winner within our Pack. Only one other guy out of 68 cars to go under 3.00 and he did that in 2 heats. We loaded all weight to the rear and got 2 test runs. I was certain we would have a wobble but it was smooth with 4" steer.
I used LB's method which worked beautifully even though I don't know enough to use it to it's full potential. Now, like Stan said, it didn't tell me what to do to fix but I just kept running forward and reverse and turning/switching wheels and axles until the wheels went to the heads at the same time over the same distance both forward and backwards. I still had some wobble at 0345 hrs this morning. I was certain the rear alignment was correct and went to bed wondering what to do since race was today. I banked on one of 2 things being the problem, 1) Not perfectly square drill press table when grooving the BSA axles or 2) My track was throwing me off however, last years car was silent and straight on this track right off the shelf.
My boy polished 2 new axles this morning but this time we didn't groove them. They were dead straight axles. I installed them, ran LB's test and it was perfect (with my limited knowledge) first time. Ran it on our track and had major wobble unless DFW was up in .68 oz range. Steer didn't make any difference.
Now I thought maybe track issues. We loaded all our tuning weight to the rear axle and centered and headed to the race knowing we had 2 test runs. I kept steer at 4" since that would be hard to adjust without our kitchen table. We were certain we would have to move weight forward after test runs but it was silent and fast.
On the way, no kidding, we said a prayer that all of the cars would reach their full potential (no crashes or parts falling off). After our test runs both rear axles had slid out almost to the point of coming out because we did final glue job when we left for the race. Fortunately they were marked.
I used LB's method which worked beautifully even though I don't know enough to use it to it's full potential. Now, like Stan said, it didn't tell me what to do to fix but I just kept running forward and reverse and turning/switching wheels and axles until the wheels went to the heads at the same time over the same distance both forward and backwards. I still had some wobble at 0345 hrs this morning. I was certain the rear alignment was correct and went to bed wondering what to do since race was today. I banked on one of 2 things being the problem, 1) Not perfectly square drill press table when grooving the BSA axles or 2) My track was throwing me off however, last years car was silent and straight on this track right off the shelf.
My boy polished 2 new axles this morning but this time we didn't groove them. They were dead straight axles. I installed them, ran LB's test and it was perfect (with my limited knowledge) first time. Ran it on our track and had major wobble unless DFW was up in .68 oz range. Steer didn't make any difference.
Now I thought maybe track issues. We loaded all our tuning weight to the rear axle and centered and headed to the race knowing we had 2 test runs. I kept steer at 4" since that would be hard to adjust without our kitchen table. We were certain we would have to move weight forward after test runs but it was silent and fast.
On the way, no kidding, we said a prayer that all of the cars would reach their full potential (no crashes or parts falling off). After our test runs both rear axles had slid out almost to the point of coming out because we did final glue job when we left for the race. Fortunately they were marked.
THANK YOU LIGHTNINBOY!!!. Just so u guys know, LB spoke with me over the phone for over 20 minutes yesterday explaining his test, what to look for and possible fixes for our wobble. All 2.95's and a single 2.96 today. 2nd Place in Pack to a guy who hit a 2.91 and is the annual winner within our Pack. Only one other guy out of 68 cars to go under 3.00 and he did that in 2 heats. We loaded all weight to the rear and got 2 test runs. I was certain we would have a wobble but it was smooth with 4" steer.
I used LB's method which worked beautifully even though I don't know enough to use it to it's full potential. i still had some wobble at 0345 hrs this morning. I was certain the rear alignment was correct and went to bed wondering what to do since race was today. I banked on one of 2 things being the problem, 1) Not perfectly square drill press table when grooving the BSA axles or 2) My track was throwing me off however, last years car was silent and straight on this track right off the shelf.
My boy polished 2 new axles this morning but this time we didn't groove them. They were dead straight axles. I installed them, ran LB's test and it was perfect (with my limited knowledge) first time. Ran it on our track and had major wobble unless DFW was up in .68 oz range. Steer didn't make any difference.
Now I thought maybe track issues. We loaded all our tuning weight to the rear axle and centered and headed to the race knowing we had 2 test runs. I kept steer at 4" since that would be hard to adjust without our kitchen table. We were certain we would have to move weight forward after test runs but it was silent and fast.
On the way, no kidding, we said a prayer that all of the cars would reach their full potential (no crashes or parts falling off). After our test runs both rear axles had slid out almost to the point of coming out because we did final glue job when we left for the race. Fortunately they were marked.
He also got the "Best Car That's Not A Car" award.
I used LB's method which worked beautifully even though I don't know enough to use it to it's full potential. i still had some wobble at 0345 hrs this morning. I was certain the rear alignment was correct and went to bed wondering what to do since race was today. I banked on one of 2 things being the problem, 1) Not perfectly square drill press table when grooving the BSA axles or 2) My track was throwing me off however, last years car was silent and straight on this track right off the shelf.
My boy polished 2 new axles this morning but this time we didn't groove them. They were dead straight axles. I installed them, ran LB's test and it was perfect (with my limited knowledge) first time. Ran it on our track and had major wobble unless DFW was up in .68 oz range. Steer didn't make any difference.
Now I thought maybe track issues. We loaded all our tuning weight to the rear axle and centered and headed to the race knowing we had 2 test runs. I kept steer at 4" since that would be hard to adjust without our kitchen table. We were certain we would have to move weight forward after test runs but it was silent and fast.
On the way, no kidding, we said a prayer that all of the cars would reach their full potential (no crashes or parts falling off). After our test runs both rear axles had slid out almost to the point of coming out because we did final glue job when we left for the race. Fortunately they were marked.
He also got the "Best Car That's Not A Car" award.
