Wannabe rookie needs help with wheel/car prep for June!

If you compare a wood 32 ft with an aluminum 35 ft, the wood track if in good shape will be almost 0.2 faster. and then add another 0.45 to run on a 42 ft alum track. So total time increases by 0.65.

Most wood tracks have a circular arc ramp
 
I am not EVEN going to try to argue math or formulas with txchemist
dazed
(he is a mathmatical wizard) however, in my case we were able to race on both styles, a 35' wood track and a 35' aluminium best track and our times were faster on the aluminum track. I also did some not so mathmatical wizadry when we raced at districts on a Pile of crap wood track and our times were about a tenth of a second slower...Just our own Xperiences.
 
Now assuming you have a wood track in great shape AND a good starting system- not normal...this data is from my grandsons car two yrs ago. Some wood tracks are built with a ramp and tight curve like a best track and they ARE slow. Our Pack has the typical arc and is fast, but dinged up bad and very variable and cars fly off it..

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Lkktfi1G3/G+cQPq45xSviM1owtniFqsSGroMwueS9OJ2aXMxlCBenncJbs/wJiLUObwn6LaoSH3QdhBWXEARBEMR1kEsIgiCIm/gfozOISumEsY8AAAAASUVORK5CYII=

So the 2.77 is slow unless you had lots of other cars to compare with running about the same. OR the track is jacked up.
 
txchemist said:
If you compare a wood 32 ft with an aluminum 35 ft, the wood track if in good shape will be almost 0.2 faster. and then add another 0.45 to run on a 42 ft alum track. So total time increases by 0.65.

Most wood tracks have a circular arc ramp
Chief said:
I am not EVEN going to try to argue math or formulas with txchemist
dazed
(he is a mathmatical wizard) however, in my case we were able to race on both styles, a 35' wood track and a 35' aluminium best track and our times were faster on the aluminum track. I also did some not so mathmatical wizadry when we raced at districts on a Pile of crap wood track and our times were about a tenth of a second slower...Just our own Xperiences.

So in other words, YMMV!

I see both points, my wooden track doesn't really have a circular arc ramp, the first five feet are straight, but it is raw Baltic Birch (just sanded with 400 grit, no finish applied yet.), so the aluminum track might be smoother. My hill length is comparable, about 10.5 ft long to the flat, but it's on a 29 degree angle not 26. Different brands of timers, different adjustments on the start switches, different start gate speeds, etc. Lots of unknowns. Since my gate swings down instead of rotating that will probably make a difference also?

We'll find out in a few weeks!
 
As long as you can get enough consistency to see when you make an improvement, it will do just fine for you. With that ramp, forget all those arc times. Not comparable. Good Luck! And be sure and run your car on your track right after you get it back for data also.
 
Consistency hasn't been a problem since I found this forum and started drilling the axle holes! If I don't mess with it between runs and stage it the same it repeats within .003 or better.

I will definitely log it before I send it and when it gets back. Thanks for the advice!
 
Quicktimederby said:
Such wise advise, who is the Derby Freak person?!?

Don't remember me, hugh!!! Well let me see if i can refresh your memory. Go to the 2012 March madness video and watch round 1 race 1 in the SS finals and see if that will refresh your memory. If that don't do it refer to "My Favorite Race" and that will surely jog your memory you don't forget a sting from the "Wasp" LOL....
lol


I know you miss me don't let on like you don't........
smile
 
bracketracer said:
Well, I finished building the body yesterday. Took it out of the clamps and weighed it along with a set of Cheetahs and 92X's. 139 grams. But that's without paint. Looks like I'll be painting it on the scale so I know when to quit! So if you see it at the June race half painted you'll know what happened!

I thought paint would add more weight than it did! I put three coats of laquer color and three wet coats of clear and it only added a gram and a half! Heck, I skipped using primer and just hand rubbed on a coat of shellac to seal the grain thinking I was going to be close on weight. I could have primed it and still been ok I believe. I'll need to paint the underside also to make weight now!
 
Guys, what's the opinion on friction reducing pads where the wheels might touch the body? I've seen use of sheet plastic, paint with graphite rubbed in, CA glue sanded smooth and lubed, etc. I have some .030" UHMW sheet that feels pretty slick I'm using on this car but I wondered if there was something better to try?
 
All of those options seem time consuming... In the off chance your rears hit the body just use a Delrin (or Teflon) washer... very quick and easy. This is just a safety feature and I wouldn't take the chance of compromising my drilling or body by installing something into the wood like the sheet plastic. I know others do it... but I am not a fan.

http://www.shop.derbydad4hire.com/Delrin-Washers-W-WAS.htm
 
I was going to get those with my last order but they showed to be out of stock then. Looks like they're back in now. I wasn't so much concerned with the rears since they "should" be against the axle heads, I was more concerned about the DFW. I did go ahead and put the UHMW in the body for the three wheels that are touching, it's semi-transparent so it was easy to open a hole to match the body once the glue dried. In hindsight, I should have fitted the plastic before drilling any of the holes and drilled them through in one shot. Another rookie learning experience!
 
It's painted! My youngest son picked out the color - Lime Ice. Should be easy to spot on the internet feed!



After painting the bottom I'm at 142.5 grams with wheels and axles. I ordered some calibration weights off ebay to double check my scale just to be on the safe side anyway. It shows zero when the tray is empty but I wanted to check it at 150 grams (closest calibration weight I could find) to make sure I don't have any problems on race day.
 
5KidsRacing said:
All of those options seem time consuming... In the off chance your rears hit the body just use a Delrin (or Teflon) washer... very quick and easy. This is just a safety feature and I wouldn't take the chance of compromising my drilling or body by installing something into the wood like the sheet plastic. I know others do it... but I am not a fan.

http://www.shop.derbydad4hire.com/Delrin-Washers-W-WAS.htm

+1 i always just use the teflon washers myself, some people in the past had trouble gluing them to the body but i use gorilla super glue and they have been on my cars for 17 months now and have never came off i took them off an older car once and it brought paint and all.
 
Wierd. I weighed the car right after I finished painting it and it was 142.5g. I weighed it again after I got home from work last night and it was 142.22g. Solvents in the laquer evaporating I guess? Anyway, I put the Cheetahs on with the 92x's, lubed it, and made 10 runs to break in the oil. After break in, it ran a best of 2.718 with a 2.722 average for 10 runs. (35ft/32ft track) About .053 lower on the average! I haven't bought Jig yet, so I was using a silicone spray we use at work. I'll have to try to find Jig and see how much better it is than what I have! Thanks for the help and advice! Stephen
 
Oops! I think I just figured out why you need to have the k-house groove in the head of the axle! With the modified wheels the axle head sits too low in the wheel to be able to adjust the steer with my smallest pliers! I believe I'll be naming this car "Rookie Mistakes", given how the build has gone so far.....
 
Bracketracer, You will not be the only rookie there ! Maybe you and I can battle against each other ! I started my car last Sunday @ noon and at 6:30am (Monday morning ) headed off to work while my buddy ( GO ) cut out my box and shipped it for me ! (less than a 24 hr build we will see what happens ) With a last minute set up of the track ran a 2.445 on a 35' aluminum track ! Just looking for my sub 3 badge Saturday morning ! Good luck to you Saturday ! I will be watching you ! After the race ...... reach out to me I may have an extra can of jig sitting around !
smile


 
OTO Racing said:
Bracketracer, You will not be the only rookie there ! Maybe you and I can battle against each other ! I started my car last Sunday @ noon and at 6:30am (Monday morning ) headed off to work while my buddy ( GO ) cut out my box and shipped it for me ! (less than a 24 hr build we will see what happens ) With a last minute set up of the track ran a 2.445 on a 35' aluminum track ! Just looking for my sub 3 badge Saturday morning ! Good luck to you Saturday ! I will be watching you ! After the race ...... reach out to me I may have an extra can of jig sitting around !
smile



What the f....??? Is this B..H. Infiltrating the website