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[Guest]

Ahh,I see. That would be hard to detect. Here's an idea, get a platform that the car rests on that can be lowered and elevated in micro adjustments with a scissor type jack. I have one somewhere, but have never seen the need to set it up haha The wheel will rest on the scale and the platform cradling the car can be adjusted to find the sweet spot where the axle is not interfering with the wheel bore and an accurate wheel weight should be obtained.

*I wish this was my idea but it's not. I read it years ago from a scout leader intent on ferreting out any "cheaters" in his den.

 

[Guest]

Thanks Lightningboy,

That is great news.

Hi Corvid,

The magnifier is a nice touch dog.

 

[Guest]

Ahh,I see. That would be hard to detect. Here's an idea, get a platform that the car rests on that can be lowered and elevated in micro adjustments with a scissor type jack. I have one somewhere, but have never seen the need to set it up haha The wheel will rest on the scale and the platform cradling the car can be adjusted to find the sweet spot where the axle is not interfering with the wheel bore and an accurate wheel weight should be obtained.

*I wish this was my idea but it's not. I read it years ago from a scout leader intent on ferreting out any "cheaters" in his den.

LOL!!!

 

[GravityX]

OK this will solve it all, I drew this up back in October of last year when I first heard talk of this wheel cavity weight. Here is the window for inspection of the inside of the wheel. Please excuse the crude drawing, but you'll get the idea.

 

[LightninBoy]

OK this will solve it all, I drew this up back in October of last year when I first heard talk of this wheel cavity weight. Here is the window for inspection of the inside of the wheel. Please excuse the crude drawing, but you'll get the idea.

I agree. I was pondering Corvid's suggestion some more and had exactly the same thought.

 

[LightninBoy]

Thanks Lightningboy,

That is great news.

Sarcasm?? <taps sarcasm detector> Dang, this thing is usually pretty accurate but it ain't budgin. <taps sarcasm detector harder> Nope. Nuthin.

 

[Guest]

Thanks Lightningboy,

That is great news.

Sarcasm?? <taps sarcasm detector> Dang, this thing is usually pretty accurate but it ain't budgin. <taps sarcasm detector harder> Nope. Nuthin.

LOL!

The sarcasm detector is running true.

I would be happy to make something that could fit about .75oz into each wheel and have a viewing window/slot for the scouts. (Some assembly required)

 

[Guest]

Ok.

So Down 4 Derby listed 11 benefits of the weights to me months ago.

1. Quicker moment of inertia at the transition

2. Slower moment of inertia rocking back and forth (more stabile)

3. Improved aero by eliminating the "cupping effect" of the wind in the wheel voids

4. Lower/ more stabile COM

5. More versatility with incremental weighting

6. Thinner/ more unique car designs possible due to the elimination of the restriction of using
.25" cubes

7. Ease of install (No weight pockets)

8. Not having to install weights until late in the build (this one is my own)

9. Reduced vibrations with the weights cantilevered. (vibrational judo?) People say it is quieter.

I can't remember the rest, but still it is not a bad list for a pair of parts on a PWD car.

OK D4D just called me to remind me of some other benefits.

One is that by filling the void of the wheel it reduces the harmonic resonance. (I told you this guy was deep)

 

[LightninBoy]

LOL!

The sarcasm detector is running true.

I would be happy to make something that could fit about .75oz into each wheel and have a viewing window/slot for the scouts. (Some assembly required)

You could call it Puma Racing weights with the GravityX Viewing Slot option. And for extra $$ provide the Corvid Magnified Window.

 

[Guest]

That's a great idea!!

 

[LightninBoy]

Cut relief holes from below to expose the axle tip and use a thin screwdriver to push the axles out. Maglev

Amongst all the rules stuff I missed responding to this. So thanks ... and may I say ...

 

[Maglev]

You're welcome Lightning Boy. I'd recommend punch in a 1/4" relief hole from below just past the axle holes axis, centered around 3/4" from either side. I'd use a 4-fluted end mill on my drill press for this job. I'd give credit to 5 Kids and Spirit for teaching me this cool trick.
Maglev

 

[cygnus]

You're welcome Lightning Boy. I'd recommend punch in a 1/4" relief hole from below just past the axle holes axis, centered around 3/4" from either side. I'd use a 4-fluted end mill on my drill press for this job. I'd give credit to 5 Kids and Spirit for teaching me this cool trick. Maglev

Setting aside the Puma washer weights for a moment and going old school with two rows of six ¼” cubes behind the rear axles . . . I’m trying to understand how drilling a ¼” hole in the middle of a ¼” wide rear strut wouldn’t compromise its strength. For rear axle alignment, is it not critical to have a solid wood strut that spans the entire width of the car? How wide and how deep are you making the rear strut? If you don’t mind, could you post a pic? Thanks.

 

[TRE]

the only way i see is if you glue the weights in

 

[Guest]

In a nutshell, Tre is right- glue the weights in first. then drill so it's firm.

I also use 2 1/4" strips of birch veneer, one glued on each side.

To be honest, with my experience though, I would rather leave it solid and instead drill a small 1/16" hole at the tip of each axle and slightly ream it into an oblong shape that allows a small micro tipped screwdriver to be inserted.

I also cut K-House grooves in my rear axles. Before I attempt to remove, I give the axle a slight twist to break the "seal". It really makes a huge difference.

I would rather tape a flat tungsten plate on the bottom than remove that portion of the axle strut. More wood to hold the axle in place, weight is lower and has a greater scope of adjustability.

Just my 2 cents and experience

 

[GravityX]

You're welcome Lightning Boy. I'd recommend punch in a 1/4" relief hole from below just past the axle holes axis, centered around 3/4" from either side. I'd use a 4-fluted end mill on my drill press for this job. I'd give credit to 5 Kids and Spirit for teaching me this cool trick. Maglev

Setting aside the Puma washer weights for a moment and going old school with two rows of six ¼” cubes behind the rear axles . . . I’m trying to understand how drilling a ¼” hole in the middle of a ¼” wide rear strut wouldn’t compromise its strength. For rear axle alignment, is it not critical to have a solid wood strut that spans the entire width of the car? How wide and how deep are you making the rear strut? If you don’t mind, could you post a pic? Thanks.

Laminate the "axle strut" with some 1/64" plywood paying careful attention to the grain and then attach it to this area on either side. This is not my idea, I forgot where I seen it. I take no credit I just use the technique. Works great! To prove the point cutout a square out of the 1/64" plywood and bend it. One way bends easy and the other way not so much. Cut a piece out along the not-so-easy-to-bend side and then CA glue it in place to strengthen this strut area. Have fun!

 

[TRE]

where do you get 1/64 inch plywood

 

[GravityX]

I found some at Hobby Town, but I'm sure there are other places around.

 

[aircooled]

I do the same thing, got it from Spacewalker.

 

[Maglev]

I usually attach 1/64 plywood veneer sheet strips (from Hobby Lobby or Sharfer's hobby store) on either side of my rear axle strut weight pockets. Spacewalker's videos demonstrate the steps pretty well. Some of Evo's laser cut bodies come with it too.
Maglev