If you want a PINKS(?) race, I'd have to ask that you stick to the same limitations that I did. That is, trying to push kit parts as far as I can. So self-deburred and polished BSA axles (not Revell, or any other BSA-clone type axles!), and BSA wheels that have not been professionally machined. Graphite for lubricant. Pledge (or whatever spray you prefer) on the axles. Bore wax is fine too.
That sound reasonable?[/QUOTE]
From the description on BASX:
Axles
a. Minimum diameter .084
b. Axles must have a nail head
Wheels
BSA
a. May be CnCed, lathed, polished and/or sanded to true the edge of tread, surface and circumference
b. The tread / contact surface must remain flat and parallel to the bore as humanly possible
c. No Angling, Reshaping, Canting, Round Crowning, Tapering, H-ing, V-ing, Dishing, the outside of the wheels and/or tread surface
d. All markings must remain visible on the inside and outside of the wheel including tread bumps.
e. NO Wheel covers may be used
f. 8.00mm Minimum Tread Width
g. Wheels must weigh at least 2.4 grams and a wheel can be removed after the race to be weighed to confirm weight.
h. The wheels can be trued to get to the 2.4 gram weight but they are not to be cut down intentionally under the weight limit and use foreign material to bring it back to weight.
Key phrase here is it does NOT say it has to be a out of the box axle. And wheels CAN be trued.
With all that being I am ready if you are. We can do graphite or oil your choice.