I tried half weight with mixed results... and they weren't as fast as my full swaying car.
If I cut back to 2.3g behind the axles, I wouldn't even bother with a weight pocket back there.
Car weights
- Thread starter Reggie
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I tried half weight with mixed results... and they weren't as fast as my full swaying car.
If I cut back to 2.3g behind the axles, I wouldn't even bother with a weight pocket back there.
Nobody wants to hear my opinion I don' know sh1t
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Laserman
Guest
“If I cut back to 2.3g behind the axles, I wouldn't even bother with a weight pocket back there.”
An interesting idea... I might have to make that my next car.
An interesting idea... I might have to make that my next car.
I might race a car in the league at some point, just to see how far behind I am from the top guys like you, JBD, DWS and a few others., I don't have the experience to win at that level with wheel weights, or any other kind of weights for that matter. I suspect however, that you could pull it off.
In fact, I'll make you a friendly wager. I'll give you $100 if you build a SS car with Puma weights and win with it. I'm sure Joe will supply you with the weights free of cost. It would be an excellent experiment, what do you say?
Feel free to send me the $100.00. I have won at both APR and NPWDRL running wheel weights. Yes, this includes the half wheel weights. I stopped using them because I was able to make faster, more stable cars using just wheel covers.
If Lasernut wants to send me free parts, I'll build cars and give them an honest test to see if I can make them faster now than I did a couple years ago.
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Laserman
Guest
Sounds like a plan!
I misplaced your address.
Please PM me and I will send a couple sets out directly. Putting packages together as we speak.
I misplaced your address.
Please PM me and I will send a couple sets out directly. Putting packages together as we speak.
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Ember
Guest
There you go....free weights to play with.
If you can win SS with them I will give you $100. Of course there has to be the typical field of cars, including DWS and JBD. It would be money well spent knowing what these weights are capable of.
Just send the parts in your car box when you enter the next NPWDRL race...
Figured you would want a rematch with Alphonso.
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Laserman
Guest
Yep... if the rules allow pre 2009 wheels...or if the phrase “no aero modifications of any kind” are in the rules... then the TX weights are tough to beat.
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Ember
Guest
So in SS, where a pre 2009 wheel might be used, if you had some pre 2009 wheels on your car with wheel weights, the winner would be a fair test, or if both SS cars used post 2009 wheels, also fair and the winner would be ...?
Remember, you have the likes of DWS, JBD and Hurricrane all very good with either wheel, and repeat customers for TxW weights.
Remember, you have the likes of DWS, JBD and Hurricrane all very good with either wheel, and repeat customers for TxW weights.
I have a set of your weights. Sadly my car body's are slightly to heavy to allow for two 2.1 oz bars in the cars. So where should I place the 2.1 oz bar. In front or behind the rear axle? I am trying to solve a problem in that a car with a heavier body and 10 weights behind and 13 weights in front of the wheel is faster then any car I build with the 2.1 oz block behind and 12 cubes in front of the wheel. The cars are running the same wheels and axles and I try to balance them left right about the same. I am wondering if I will do better if I put that 2.1 oz in front of the wheel although that would prevent me from balancing the car left right.
Most are now using the 1x6 bar, a few 1x2 bars and then a cube if needed to get better balance. Most have to play with them on each car to find the best needed balance for speed. If this set up is too heavy, replace a 1x2 with a std. cube and some putty. The 1x2 bar can be water jet drilled to allow an axle through it for the more adventuresome.
I wouldn't recommend using two of the 2.1 oz bars in a car. It leaves you with no options for fine tuning the weight balance of the car. Run the 2.1 oz bar behind the rear axle. From there I would use 1/4" cubes or a combination of cubes like TX suggested.
I can build 6 cars using the exact same type of wheel, axles, prep, oil, etc., and they will all run different speeds. Unless you are using the EXACT wheels, Axles, etc., and just changing out the weights, it will be difficult to quantify the impact of the weight blocks.
You mentioned that your car with 10 cubes behind the rear axle is faster than your car with 12 cubes behind the rear axle. Any chance you are running a 4 3/8" wheel base? The shorter the wheel base, the more sensitive the car will be to the weight placed behind the rear axle.
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Laserman
Guest
Indeed they are fast and proficient. I would like to see SS return to the good old days when the Cheetah was the gold standard. A series or two of only new style SS wheels would be a good test of things I think.
Interesting. I actually used 1x5 bars in the fast car, 2 behind and 2 in front of the
The 10 cubes car is a long wheel base car (almost max) and is running EXACT the same wheels and axles om the rear. I swap them out between the cars to make things equal as possible, except the DFW, the 10 cubes car runs 92TX and the others 93TX, but even with graphite I found the 93TX better than the 92TX. Also the wheels on the DFW are the same make.
I tested it against another long wheel base car and a 5 inch wheel base car with the 2.1 oz bar and 12 cubes in front of the rear axle. To add insult to injury we actually have the weight of the 10 cubes car biased to the wrong side, right now the 3 front cubes are on the non dominant side of the car, still need to change them to the DFW to see what happens with the speed. I tried this weight bias on the other cars, thinking I found the holy grail of how to get more speed, but that didn't work out so well and lost speed. The 10 cubes car is not a whole lot faster than the other cars but I expected the other cars with more cubes towards the back to be at faster. We're using a canted axle hole driller jig so I expect to be all the holes about the same regarding straightness.
The 10 cubes car is a long wheel base car (almost max) and is running EXACT the same wheels and axles om the rear. I swap them out between the cars to make things equal as possible, except the DFW, the 10 cubes car runs 92TX and the others 93TX, but even with graphite I found the 93TX better than the 92TX. Also the wheels on the DFW are the same make.
I tested it against another long wheel base car and a 5 inch wheel base car with the 2.1 oz bar and 12 cubes in front of the rear axle. To add insult to injury we actually have the weight of the 10 cubes car biased to the wrong side, right now the 3 front cubes are on the non dominant side of the car, still need to change them to the DFW to see what happens with the speed. I tried this weight bias on the other cars, thinking I found the holy grail of how to get more speed, but that didn't work out so well and lost speed. The 10 cubes car is not a whole lot faster than the other cars but I expected the other cars with more cubes towards the back to be at faster. We're using a canted axle hole driller jig so I expect to be all the holes about the same regarding straightness.
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